pioneering independent watchmaker, Daniel Roth established his namesake brand in 1988, after having played a key role in resurrecting the Breguet brand in Switzerland. With a workshop in the Vallee de Joux, the cradle of Swiss watchmaking, Daniel Roth quickly made a name for himself with unique and original timepieces that bore a distinctive aesthetic.
The Daniel Roth style was remarkable in combining historical inspiration, particularly from the works of Abraham-Louis Breguet, with an inventive, modern case known as the double ellipse. The use of guilloche dials and blued steel hands called to mind great historical timepieces, but the double ellipse case was undeniably singular and born from the mind of Daniel Roth himself. In fact, he designed all of his original models, first realising them with watercolours on paper like an artist.
An exceptional form combining a circle with a square, the double ellipse case became the canvas for all of the signature Daniel Roth complications. Like the stylistic codes of Daniel Roth, the brand’s early complications were historically inspired but made unique by Daniel Roth’s discerning eye. Working at a consistent pace of launching one new complication a year, Daniel Roth created a catalog of notable watches spanning between chronograph, perpetual calendar and ultra-thin watches, a remarkable achievement for a young Maison.
Even more impressive was the Tourbillon that Daniel Roth introduced in 1989 upon the launch of his brand. One of the very first wristwatch tourbillon ever made, his creation purposefully featured the double ellipse case; indeed, this unique shape allowed to best frame the tourbillon cage. The first Souscription order from 25 pieces through London retailer Asprey allowed to finance the later developments as the serial production of the Tourbillon quickly followed.
The Tourbillon immediately became the flagship model of the brand; it was offered in all precious metals complemented by a 20-piece stainless steel limited edition for the Italian market. Special finishing like volute engravings and skeletonised calibres were also available among special orders.
Fittingly, this landmark wristwatch is the inaugural creation of the revived Daniel Roth Maison. While resolutely true to the spirit of the original, the new Tourbillon Souscription nonetheless boasts refinements to its design and mechanics, most notably with an all-new in-house calibre and the signature solid gold, guilloche dial. The case remains the classic double ellipse in both shape and size, but with subtle improvements to its form, particularly in the improved ergonomics of the lugs and the reduced case height with a 9.2mm thickness, almost 2mm thinner than the original Tourbillon ref. 2187/C187.
The very first prototype is now unveiled during LVMH Watch Week in January 2024, subsequently all 20 pieces will be delivered to clients in the first semester of 2024. The Tourbillon Souscription encapsulates the direction of Daniel Roth, which will preserve the exclusivity, craftsmanship, and dedicated approach to complications embodied in the watches created by Daniel Roth when he founded the brand over three decades ago.
The revival of Daniel Roth is being conducted with the support by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, the Geneva-based manufacture of Louis Vuitton responsible for crafting all new Daniel Roth watches.
La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton is still led by its founders, Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, watchmakers who, like Daniel Roth himself, are craftsmen and technicians steeped in the history of fine watchmaking. Relying on their cumulative experience in building fine complications, the pair are stewards of Daniel Roth who can recapture the magic of the brand’s origins. And as long-time friends of Daniel Roth, they continually tap on Daniel Roth’s expertise and historical knowledge.
“I have always respected Daniel for his pioneering spirit as an independent watchmaker,” says Michel Navas, “And it is an honour to be able to reimagine his philosophy of watchmaking.” Enrico Barbasini adds, “Daniel’s watches have a particular charm and refinement that makes them special, and we stay faithful to his vision with the new creations.”
Tourbillon Souscription DR0011YG-01
• DR001 Calibre: mechanical movement with manual winding developed and assembled by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton
• Tourbillon 1-minute
• Thickness: 4,6mm
• 206 components
• 80 hours of power reserve
• 21,600 oscillations per hour – 3Hz
• 19 jewels
• Tourbillon: flat spring
• Tourbillon’s cage: 460mg
• 18K yellow gold 3N
• Dimensions: 38,6 x 35,5mm
• Thickness: 9,2mm
• Flat anti-reflection sapphire crystal
• Water-resistant to 30m
• Lug width: 20mm
• 18k Yellow gold 3N with Clous de Paris guilloche
• Daniel Roth and watch individual number engravings
• Côtes de Genève on side plates of the
• Plate underneath the Tourbillon: frosted
• Brown calfskin leather
• 18K Yellow gold 3N tang-type buckle
• Approx. 77,5g