time-keeper


Discovering Samuel Gillioz’s new Jumping Regulator watch

August 2026


Discovering Samuel Gillioz's new Jumping Regulator watch

From his early training at the Geneva School of Watchmaking to his experience at Vacheron Constantin and the creation of his own brands, Samuel Gillioz has developed a distinctive vision of independent watchmaking. His latest creation, the Jumping Regulator, brings together traditional craftsmanship and innovative mechanics, offering a contemporary interpretation of the regulator watch with instantaneous jumping hours and retrograde minutes.

S

amuel Gillioz was trained as a watchmaker at the Geneva School of Watchmaking, then pursued two additional years of studies to learn how to design new mechanisms, aiming to develop as many skills as possible.

This training program was a true source of motivation and marked an important turning point in his journey, particularly when he received his first mechanical watch — a Richard Mille — personally presented to him by Richard Mille during the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, in recognition of being the top student of his class.

Subsequently, he joined Vacheron Constantin as a movement constructor in the Cabinotiers workshop, where he had the privilege of deepening his knowledge by working with the team that created the most complicated watch in the world.

It was an incredibly enriching experience, but since independence has always been part of who he is, he wanted to bring an idea that had been in his mind for some time to life: becoming an independent watchmaker by launching his own brand.

In 2018, he traveled across Switzerland to purchase the machines he needed to create his prototypes: a 1949 Schaublin 102 lathe and a 1993 Aciera F1 milling machine.

In 2019, he launched Kauri Watches, his first watch brand, which allowed him to develop his skills in both watchmaking and entrepreneurship. This first chapter allowed him to bring a distinctive vision to life through a unique design, mastering every stage from conception and manufacturing to the final delivery of each watch.

His workshop, located in Geneva, is where he designs and crafts each watch. It is also a place where he welcomes anyone interested in learning more about his world and watchmaking in general.

In early 2025, he launched a second brand dedicated to Haute Horlogerie, a brand that bears his name and embodies everything he has learned since his first day at watchmaking school. Giving his name to this brand holds special meaning for him, it is both a source of pride and a great responsibility. He must live up to the legacy of the great master watchmakers who have shaped history and honor the trust of the future owners of his timepieces.

The models of this brand will represent a series of challenges, both technical and artistic, with a constant pursuit of perfection at every level. A year ago, he sold the first 15 watches through a subscription model. He has now assembled the first piece, which will be presented at Watches and Wonders 2026. All subscription orders will be delivered in the coming months.

Regulator watches have long been a reference tool for watchmakers in the precise adjustment of their timepieces. He wanted to pay tribute to this heritage by designing this new model, while incorporating a modern touch to the display. However, since challenges always come in pairs for him, and with over fifteen years of experience in the watchmaking industry, it was essential to make this regulator an exceptional piece.

To offer a creative and captivating way of reading the time, the regulator has been enriched with two well-known complex mechanisms: instantaneous jumping hours and retrograde minutes. These complications are displayed by two hands positioned on distinct axes. The minute hand is driven by a cam and a double wolf-tooth rack, ensuring smooth transmission and eliminating any gear backlash.

A double ratchet disengagement mechanism has also been integrated to protect the mechanics in case of reverse adjustment. He also integrated a similar mechanism — a double ratchet system — into the winding mechanism of the movement, endowing it with a strong, distinctive character, as well as a refined visual and tactile experience when winding the watch.

Every hour, the retrograde minute hand performs an instant 220° counterclockwise jump, while the hour hand simultaneously advances by one step, offering a fascinating mechanical spectacle.

The decorations are handcrafted in the workshop using traditional methods. The finishing of each component was carefully considered well in advance, right from the design phase of the mechanism, with the goal of achieving perfection in every detail.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

  • Number of components: 157
  • Number of jewels: 23
  • Frequency: 21 600 alt / hour
  • Power reserve: Up to 80 hours
  • Time display: Instantaneous retrograde minute indication on 220 degrees. Cam-driven minute hand with double wolf-tooth rake. Instantaneous jumping hours
  • Additional mechanism: Double click disconnect mechanism to protect the mechanism in the event of counter-clockwise time setting. Double inverted click winding mechanism, skeleton ratchet wheel.
  • Material: Titanium grade 5
  • Glasses: Sapphire crystal anti-reflection
  • Diameter: 39.00 millimeters
  • Thickness: 11.20 millimeters (without glasses)
  • Watch strap: Genuine leather

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