Heading up the communications department of the FHH is only one of the hats that Anne Biéler wears. This multi-talented and charismatic woman, known for her sensitivity and refinement, seems singularly out of place in a world where the waffling of words and strictly planned speeches of marketing are the rule. Without a doubt, her freedom, which is remarkable, finds its origins in the expanse of her culture and her interests, which extend far beyond the world of watches. It is impossible to cite, in this short space, all of the responsibilities that she has had over her career, which began in 1984 with the creation of an agency for the promotion of artists in the theatre and in dance. Among her peregrinations, however, we should mention a few: the creation of a cultural centre in Portugal; the artistic direction of several festivals; the presidency of a forum for cultural networks in the European Council; Communications Director at Parmigiani Fleurier; followed by the same position at Girard-Perregaux; as well as numerous mandates that she has carried out for, among others, the Sandoz family foundation, the European Commission, UNESCO, the cities of Turin and Geneva. Anne Biéler is a sterling example that humanism and culture can work well within an enterprise’s system of communication and marketing - on condition, of course, that the latter understands how to reach for the heights, which is not always so obvious. (PM)

Born in Paris, Denis Asch from his earliest years wanted to be a free entrepreneurial spirit in the world of horology. Having studied watchmaking at the Ecole d’horlogerie et de microtechnique de Porrentruy he joined a watch company in La Chaux-de-Fonds assembling movements prior to joining Rolex in 1995 to assemble and regulate theirs. Two years later he was recommended by Rolex to the retailer Kirk Freeport in the Cayman Islands as their watchmaker. Another couple of years passed before Denis decided to return to Switzerland and Rolex where he stayed until he made the daring decision to go it alone with his own specialized boutique: L’Heure Asch. It took him three months to transform some premises in Geneva’s old town and another five months to convince Vincent Calabrese, Vianney Halter, Antoine Preziuso, ChronoSwiss and Eberhard to let him represent them in his unique boutique.
Today, Denis has added Richard Mille, Hautlence, ChronArte, Moser and Vulcain to his list of brands, but as he quietly explains, “It took me three years to develop my reputation with the boutique during which time I had to convince any brand that interested me to let me represent them. I approached them because I believed in their watches and I believed in my choice. Now,” he concludes with discreet pride, “they come to me.” (DML)

Dr. Ludwig Oechslin is a rare renaissance man in the watchmaking world, with a multitude of interests in addition to horology. Having received his licentiate degree (the Swiss equivalent of a M.A.) in classical studies (archaeology, ancient history, Greek and Latin), history, history of arts and philosophy from the University of Basel in 1976, Oechslin went on to get his Ph.D. in philosophy, history of science (theoretical physics) and astronomy from the University of Bern. Then, he began training in watchmaking, receiving his diploma as a master watchmaker in 1993. Now, Oechslin is the Director-Curator of the International Watch Museum in La Chaux-de-Fonds, as well as an integral part of the design team behind Ulysse Nardin watches (including the Kopernikus, Kepler, Ludwig, GMT and more), and a well known watch expert. Born February 10th, 1952 in Gabice Mare, Italy, Oechslin has done a great deal of research into the history of horology and has published several books on this and other subjects. (KWS)

Isabelle Daucourt is one of the employees at the atelier making leather bracelets that Hermès has just established in Bienne. With a twinkle in her eye, this young woman explains that her metier is “extraordinary, incredibly enriching.” And, seeing how she works, you begin to understand her infectious enthusiasm and, from then on, you will never look at a leather bracelet in the same way as before.
Far from a banal mechanical operation, the creation of a bracelet is a complex process, at least in this atelier. Each piece requires more than one hour of labour that includes a series of very different steps: cutting, sewing, sanding, smoothing, hammering, polishing, threading, etc. Each motion is meticulous, precise. It is the artisan’s skill that comes through in these noble creations. Daucourt learned her craft in 2004 at the Boudard School, created by one of the best craftsmen in France, then perfected it at Hermès. Being able to work at this venerable French brand was a marvellous opportunity for her. “It is the best,” she says. Eight or nine bracelets a day, each one different, each one unique. And, when she goes home at night, what does the young woman do? Well, each evening and on weekends, she makes handbags and clothes for her friends and herself. Now, that’s passion! (PM)

When, in 2001, Jérôme Lambert took over the reins of the ‘most brilliant manufacture’ in Switzerland, Jaeger-LeCoultre, his appointment created jealously in the sector, and many people eagerly awaited for the young man to stumble. At age 33, Lambert found himself at the head of the venerable grand dame of watchmaking, resurrected by the charismatic and much-missed Günter Blümlein, and then managed for more than 14 years by Henry-John Belmont, who became one and the same with the enterprise. For the young man, the new job was no picnic. Certainly, he was already quite knowledgeable in the mysteries of the brand, having joined the company ten years earlier, first as Financial Controller, and then as Chief Financial and Operating Officer. Yet, the Jaeger-LeCoultre vessel, with its 40-plus metiers and 900 employees, is one of the mastodons of the watch industry, and the new captain seemed to so many to be very young. Six years later, however, it is clear that the Richemont group, which appointed him to this position, had good instincts. Jérôme Lambert was able to bring new colours – in real and figurative terms – to the enterprise’s products that were considered somewhat ‘protestant’. Without, however, moving away from the brand’s fundamentals, Lambert succeeded in avoiding the dangerous pitfalls of a single-product strategy by markedly revitalizing and boosting the second line of the Masters collection. Delving into the brand’s archives, he was able to strengthen the brand’s icon, the Reverso, and make it more masculine, by offering the Reverso Squadra. Also, not hesitating to jump in with both feet, he created controversy by launching a line of ‘chronometric’ tourbillons, sold at ‘democratic’ prices that sent shock waves to the ‘lords’ of the sector. Today, he is getting ready to launch a line of timepieces in the Haute Horlogerie sector. In short, Lambert has not yet reached his 40th birthday, and everyone is wondering where he is going to stop. (PM)

Colourful, outspoken, willingly provocateur, Vincent Calabrese is the anarchist of the watch milieu, the troublemaker. As much a philosopher and poet as a watchmaker, this co-founder of the Academy of Independent Horological Creators never ceases to criti-cize widely accepted ideas. Fiercely independent, his type of timekeeping, exemplified most notably by his Spatiales (Gold Medal winner at the Salon of Inventors in Geneva in 1977), is unlike any other, being resolutely non-conformist. After having learned watchmaking on the streets of Naples, his hometown, nothing predisposed the young man to enter into the ranks.
A trailblazer, he created his famous flying tourbillon in 1985, but then had no hesitations in proposing an amusing quartz watch with jumping hours, the Commedia, which reveals the hours in the shape of pictures between two curtains. All his creations are equipped with mechanisms entirely realized by himself, and he also designs the case, with no outside help. Recognized by collectors from around the world, he launched his own, more ‘commercial’ brand under the name of NHC in 2004. (PM)

There are as many designers as there are models that they create. Some are flamboyant, seeking maximum visibility, while others work more modestly and patiently to create the most harmonious everyday objects possible. Michel Huber belongs to this second category. As an example, while everyone was focusing on the case and dial, the visible faces of the watch, Huber declared that he “loves to work with the bracelet, this very complex thing.†He doesn’t hesitate to state that he feels a “certain pleasure in making watches that are subdued but just right,†or that for “large quantities, I know how to make them very well.â€
Born in Berne in 1950, Huber attended the School of Applied Arts in La Chaux-de-Fonds, where he obtained CFC certification as a jewel-ler. Today, he works in Geneva, where he has created an atelier specializing in industrial design. An austere and very ‘wearable’ watch, with classic yet playful lines, one watch accurately sums up his approach to design: the Square, which was created in 1991 for Ventura, and which has not taken on a single wrinkle since then. At a time when everyone is proclaiming, loud and clear, his own designer’s talents, you may be wearing a Michel Huber watch without even knowing it. Perhaps this is the greatest strength of a designer: to fade into the background behind his creation. (PM)

Product Director and a member of TAG Heuer’s Executive Committee, Stéphane Linder literally has his finger on the pulse of the world’s leader in the sports watch domain. Born in Couvet, near Neuchâtel and having obtained his diploma in Micro technology at the Ecole Polytechnique de Lausanne, Stéphane began his professional life as an Engineering Consultant working on projects ranging from a petroleum refinery to a manufacturing plant for plastic bottles. Joining TAG Heuer in 1994 as a Project Manager he worked his way through production development, marketing, project management and the launch of TAG Heuer’s eyewear.
When the company was re-organized in 2003 Stéphane was appointed Product Director where he oversees thirty-two people and necessitates his hands-on involvement in every step of the creation of a new watch from its initial concept to the prototype, the realization and development of the movement, the all-important quality control phase through to the final production of the timepieces.
A familiar friendly face with an unmistakable shining pate, Stéphane Linder is God’s gift to horological journalists since not only has he the patience of Job, but also he has the ability to explain the most intricate technical concept or detail in an unambiguous and comprehensible manner. (DML)

The Hour Glass began life as a boutique in 1979 and has developed into a regional network of twenty-three boutiques in Australia, Hong Kong, Japan, Malaysia, Thailand and most recently, Indonesia. The Hour Glass has received several awards for its brand excellence and staff development systems and actively supports the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH) and the Académie Horlogere des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI).
The company’s success is due to a combination of hospitality, attentiveness, an in-depth knowledge of timepieces, a comprehensive collection of watch brands and the innate talents of Dr. Henry Tay.
At the time of the opening of the first unique The Hour Glass boutique, Henry Tay was both a medi-cal practitioner and a partner of Lee Chay & Co., one of Singapore’s first luxury watch retailers. As the years have passed and the company has grown, Dr. Henry Tay has gone from Executive Director in 1979 to Executive Chairman in 1987. As if his original commitments were not enough, Dr. Tay is also an independent Director and Chairman of one of Asia’s largest stock brokers, with directorships in several private enterprises in real estate, manufacturing and entertainment. In his spare time Dr. Henry Tay is an active fundraiser for various charitable organizations. Like The Hour Glass, the doctor has received numerous awards for his business acumen and his untiring community work. (DML)

Source: Europa Star February-March 2007 Magazine Issue