features


Faces for our 80th anniversary

Español
September 2007



The watch industry is, above all, a vast community of men and women who work, day-in day-out, at imagining, elaborating, producing, decorating, distributing and selling watches. Europa Star, which is celebrating its 80th anniversary this year, has decided to render a symbolic homage to all these players in the watch world, whether they are CEOs or simple artisans, creators or salespeople. There will be 80 faces among tens of thousands to be discovered throughout the year.

Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey
Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey
Master watchmakers

In the world of watchmaking, the general conception is that there is either the mythic and solitary figure of the ‘master watchmaker’, hunched over his workbench for hours at a time, or the ‘brand’, where all those who contribute to it are relegated to quiet anonymity. There are very few examples of a creative duo such as we find in the team of ‘Greubel and Forsey’.
Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey, both master watchmakers, come together in their own brand and under their own logo ‘GF’. Is it necessary to even try and distinguish the G from the F? Seven years of age separate the two men, as well as two countries, France for one and England for the other. But they have many things in common. They shared the same childhood passion for taking apart all the mechanical toys that came their way, a passion encouraged by their fathers, one a watchmaker and the other an aficionado of the mechanical. They both studied watchmaking as best they could: in Morteau, then in Dreux for one; in Hackney for the other. And, both set their sights on working in Switzerland.
In 1987, Robert Greubel entered IWC working on prototypes, followed by a period at Renaud & Papi, where he became Co-General Director and shareholder. During this same time, Stephen Forsey worked restoring antique timekeepers at Asprey in London, where he became Head of the Restoration Department. In 1992, Forsey also joined Renaud & Papi, where he made the acquaintance of the person who would later become the G in GF.
Seven years later, the two men left Renaud & Papi (which became Audemars Piguet Renaud & Papi in 1992) to start their own independent company. In 2001, they created CompliTime SA, a company working exclusively in the development of complicated movements for the haute horlogerie sector, and became quickly indispensable. Alongside these activities, the duo worked to create their own brand.
Four years later, at BaselWorld 2004, the GF ‘bomb’ shocked the watch world. The very patient and provident team had already planned the introduction of successive inventions over the long term. G and F began with a Double Tourbillon 30° but quickly announced that in their technological pipeline — an unusual development platform called ‘EWT’ for ‘Experimental Watch Technology’ — were already the Quadruple Tourbillon à Différentiel and the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Incliné.
Their timepieces demonstrate totally new and astonishing techniques, presented in cases with an amazing level of quality in terms of finishing and design. Even with all this, the two men still found time to create a superb Opus 6 for Harry Winston, and then collaborate with Philippe Dufour, Vianney Halter, and Kari Voutilainen to create the Time Aeon Alliance, a group of independent watchmakers, whose goal is to promote and develop the ‘art of timekeeping at its highest level.’
The Richemont group, with a flair for business, was not wrong when it acquired a minority interest in GF. But the duo, while assured of financial security, remains fiercely independent from everyone else, while remaining gently dependent on each other. (PM)

D. Malcolm Lakin
D. Malcolm Lakin
Journalist

A journalist for the last ten years with Europa Star, where he held the titles of Managing Editor and then the very respected Senior Editor, Malcolm Lakin has taken the ‘regrettable’ decision to retire to the beaches of the Mediterranean, in Menton, with his lovely companion, Kate. The lucky devil! However, our readers and all our watchmaking friends will be, we are sure, sorry to see him go. Unanimously appreciated for his courtesy, his professionalism, his impeccable sense of humour, his very British elegance, and his intimate knowledge of the inner workings of the world of timekeeping, Malcolm Lakin was not, however, predestined to become the ‘Sean Connery’ of watchmaking journalism. Born in Scotland, of Russian descent, this musician’s son came to Geneva in the 1960s where he worked first in the communications department of the IOS, then at Union Carbide.
Gradually, he became familiar with the watch milieu, first with an interest in gold, working for the World Gold Council, then working in several jewellery magazines. It was only after joining Europa Star that his talented and spiritual pen was put to work exclusively for the world of watches. Rapidly adopted by our team, Malcolm soon became indispensable.
Now, he is leaving Geneva, but fear not, we are not losing him completely. Although he will be devoting much time to writing a collection of stories and a novel, using his talent as a master swimmer and painter, his columns will continue to regularly grace the pages of Europa Star. His famous column, ‘Freely Speaking’ will from now on be known as ‘Lakin at Large’ and three or four times a year, we will send him on a ‘special mission’. ‘You only live twice’, n’est-ce pas! (PM)

Felix Baumgartner
Felix Baumgartner
Watchmaker and Director of Urwerk

“We are able to do what we want and how we want to do it,” Felix Baumgartner, watchmaker and Director of Urwerk says. “Last year, we made 185 pieces and this year, we will make about 230 pieces.“_ Working as a watchmaker and company director calls for a bit of a juggling act on Baumgartner’s part. “From the morning until three p.m., I am a watchmaker,” he details. “Between three and four, I start up my computer, check my e-mails and make my phone calls, and I become the director of the company. This split is perfect for me. I tried being 100 percent the director last year and I was unhappy. When I am watchmaking, I feel I have accomplished something.”I really like coming up with new ideas and creations,” he continues. “I like finding the technical solutions to make all the ideas work. When you start to invent new complications, then you have to think and create.“_ Baumgartner is committed to working on new ways of telling time, a staple of Urwerk’s current watches.”For the next five to eight years, we will continue to carry out research on new time indications,” he says. “Now, we use satellite indications to tell the time. We will move forward focusing on different materials, as well.“_ Baumgartner is optimistic about the future.”I think the future for Urwerk and the rest of the watch industry looks great,” he says. “There is still a lot of potential. It all comes down to education and teaching people what watchmaking is. There are also a lot of cultures that had been closed off - like Russia, China, and India - that don’t know anything about watches other than Rolex and diamonds. It is our responsibility to communicate the watchmaking culture of Switzerland." (KWS)

Thomas Morf
Thomas Morf
CEO of Carl F. Bucherer

Thomas Morf was named CEO of Carl F. Bucherer in March of 2001 and he has done an amazing job with the brand so far. “Passion, perseverance, never give up - these are elements to describe my character and I think I have the talent to motivate people,” he says. “However, the success of Carl F. Bucherer lies in the fact that we have a clear vision, a clear strategy and a mission to accomplish. And the most important factor is capable and talented people behind the brand. “We do not want to be a marketing brand,” Morf says. “We market our brand properly, of course, but we don’t want to invest 80 percent into marketing, we want it to be the other way around, 80 percent in the product. You have to have a rock solid product first, and then you market that product.”
Morf is having a great time running Carl F. Bucherer. “Building a global brand from day one is a unique and rare opportunity,” he says. “Combining a hobby with business is very rare on this planet. I’m privileged to do something I love everyday. Travelling around the world, making good friends, being exposed to different cultures is pretty exciting, isn’t it?
“I like to look at beautiful things, like the design of a great car,” he continues. “I am fascinated by torque and speed. Watches are very similar to other engines - the watch never stops, it’s a high performance machine. That’s why many men are attracted to mechanical watches. Everything with an engine in it is great - cars, motorcycles, boats, planes and watches.” (KWS)

Source: Europa Star August - September 2007 Magazine Issue