Mechanicals and Complications Lead the Way for Diverse Watch Product
By Keith W. Strandberg
www.nationaljeweler.com

This year's BaselWorld show opened with some chilly weather, some controversy and some great new products. Though attendance may be down from some countries (the United States in particular), exhibitors are here in force to show their wares to buyers. These products range from unique technological achievements to amazing complications and beautiful novelties, and everything in between. At BaselWorld 2003, you can find just about anything you want in whatever price range you want, from the cheapest to the most expensive.

Two areas that are seeing a great deal of activity and expansion are mechanical watches and complications. As watch companies see the demand worldwide for mechanical watches, they attempt to satisfy and grow this segment with new entry-level mechanicals, mid-priced mechanicals and complications.

Maurice Lacroix is a good example of this trend. A rapidly growing brand, Maurice Lacroix has become a player in both quartz watches and mechanicals. As the company's focus sharpens, however, more emphasis is being placed on watchmaking competence, so introducing complications is a tool to build the prestige of the brand. This year, Maurice Lacroix introduces a new Double Retrograde in the Masterpiece collection, as well as a new Phase de Lune Tonneau; Miss Universe 2002, Justine Pasek, was on hand to debut the company's first Masterpiece watch for women, the Phase de Lune Dame.

Chopard is unveiling its L.U.C 4T, a four-barrel (L.U.C. Quattro technology) tourbillon with a nine-day power reserve, along with the Jacky Ickx 6/24 Chronograph, which features a caseback with the legendary racer's engraved signature. Chopard also is expanding the Golden Diamonds line and is showing many beautiful jewelry watches as well.

Harry Winston is showing the Opus 3 watch for the first time, this one designed by Vianney Halter and featuring a unique way of viewing the time, through six circular windows.

Corum's Tourbillon Saphir 999 is another example of exquisite mechanical craftsmanship, and Corum has more new watches at Basel in the Bubble, Admiral's Cup and Sugar Cube lines.

Dubey & Schaldenbrand has six new offerings, including three models in the Aerodyn line, a limited edition Caprice 03 and two models in the Spiral line, one being the Spiral Rattrapante split-seconds chronograph.

Movado is turning heads with new mechanical watches in the Elliptica line: the Elliptica Reserve de Marche, Elliptica Minute Repeater and the Museum Automatic.

H. Stern is introducing the first automatic in its collection, Caliber 262, as well as some beautifully adorned watches, while at the same time announcing that the company would like to work with wholesale distributors in countries around the world. Currently, watches represent about 20 percent of H. Stern's business, but the company is looking to grow that to 40 percent; the new stand in the watch section of Basel is a testament to that dedication.

Roamer is another company that is introducing new mechanical watches in the Competence line, including Competence Originale, La Grande Competence and La Competence Squelette.

Bulgari is here for first time in a long while, and the group has occupied a huge space, including niche brands Gerald Genta and Daniel Roth. The booth space is huge (6,000 square meters), with a 30-meter-long marble staircase. The exhibition space has 46 sales rooms, 33 showcases and a full restaurant. Bulgari is introducing new Petites Complications in the Bulgari-Bulgari line and many more new watches. Gold seems to be quite popular this year, and many companies have come out with entire lines in gold. Festina is so strong in gold that the booth in Hall 1.0 is just for the Festina Gold Collection, including the Century Edition and Jaguar.

Jorg Hysek is debuting two new watches, the V-King and the X-Ray, both worth an extended look. Looking for great new shapes and colors? Try Ritmo Mvndo, Locman, Grimoldi and MW by Michele.

Source: www.nationaljeweler.com
April 2003