After having succeeded in re-launching the mechanical watch by targeting essentially the masculine market, and after having been assured of its world domination (in terms of value), the Swiss watch industry is now looking to expand into new territories. Today’s ‘women’ consumers seem to be well placed to help them in their endeavour to find new and profitable markets.
During the last few years, the ‘fashion’ phenomenon – with its grand parade of global brands that have perfectly mastered the subtleties of communication in targeting a feminine public – has made some serious inroads into the territory once belonging exclusively to traditional watch brands. A good example is Gucci, which has shown for a few years the power of attraction, and even fascination, of its stylist stars such as Tom Ford.
Flooding over the watch industry, the fashion wave proved to traditional watch brands that their models were, to a large extent, behind the times and definitely not stylish. The traditionalists found themselves sheepishly uncomfortable offering their vaguely feminine timepieces, which in most cases were merely a reduction in size of the larger masculine models. Faced with this situation, the large brands began to take notice. Among the barons of the Haute Horlogerie sector, Patek Philippe took action in 1999, with the creation of its Twenty-4 model. It was a resounding success, both in terms of volume and strategic market positioning. Prior to this, Patek Philippe’s production was 70 per cent geared to the masculine market. Today, the men/women ratio is 55% / 45%! And, it is not finished. Philippe Stern declared ‘loud and clear’ that “The feminine market still offers a huge growth potential for Patek Philippe, and we intend to strengthen our efforts in this area.”
At the time, this dramatic move by the most aristocratic of the grand traditional watchmakers (a move that used quartz to sell its ‘fashion’ watch!), made the purists cringe in their corners. Today, however, it is clear to all that Patek Philippe exhibited unusual intelligence and foresight in moving into the feminine market. Everyone, or nearly everyone, has now followed suit.
No longer is quartz taboo, even with the established and respected brands. It is seen as the second phase of a longer-term strategy to introduce women gradually to the joys and mysteries of the mechanical timepiece.
Most of the october/november issue of Europa Star is dedicated to the feminine phenomenon. We begin with our Cover Story about the launch of a new line, Idéale, by Jaeger-LeCoultre, entirely dedicated to women’s timekeepers.
We also take a special look at Zenith. With the launch of three colourful, playful and, yes, mechanical ladies’ watches, Zenith is combining the canons of fashion design with the grand tradition of mechanical timekeeping.
Surprisingly, Audemars Piguet, although being the large manufacturer of mechanical movements that it is, has decided to use quartz in its vast campaign of charm that has been presented under the revealing name of ‘Women of the World.’
Another example that testifies to the current activities of watchmakers in feminine ‘territory’ is the rise of a rather special brand in the interior of the Swatch Group. Léon Hatot, is not only a feminine brand, it is also managed by a woman, Arlette Emch, for women, “all women.”
Girard-Perregaux, with its new and beautiful collection Cat's Eye, is moving into the ladies’ sector, as is Louis Vuitton, which is presenting its new Tambour Fleurs Précieuses. When we look at De Grisogono, with its lovely Lipstick line, or even Milus and the 17 million geometric permutations of Tarasea, or the baroque models of Roger Dubuis, or the interesting models proposed by Barthelay, Façonnable and others, it is clear that the world of feminine timekeeping will never be the same.
Last but not least, we must mention two very different brands, each with its own original personality. Delaneau has just introduced a line of very ornamental tourbillons destined for the ladies’ market, a definite world first. Prano, a new discovery, is a young and dynamic brand that is dedicated entirely to crafting women’s watches.

Photo: Carrera Nacre Diamonds

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