t the origin of Vanguart lies deep technical expertise, with intersecting careers at APRP (Audemars Piguet Renaud & Papi) and years spent developing movements for Audemars Piguet, Richard Mille and Chanel. But also – as evidenced by the extraordinary architecture of pieces that GQ dubbed the “hottest watch on the planet” after seeing the Orb on Michael Jordan’s wrist – a decisive encounter with designer Thierry Fischer.

Around Mehmet Korutürk, whose background is in private equity and Formula 1 (Genii Capital, Lotus Renault F1 Team), a complementary team came together: Axel Leuenberger (former APRP R&D), Jérémy Freléchox (15 years at APRP) and Thierry Fischer, designer and free spirit. Together, they share one conviction: if they were to create a brand, it would have to be radical. Out of this world, as Vanguart’s motto proclaims.

Vanguart made its name with creations such as the Black Hole (2021) and the Orb (2024), combining original mechanical architecture with artisanal finishing. Founded in 2017 in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the brand is led by Axel Leuenberger (CEO) and Jérémy Freléchox (CTO), both formerly of APRP, alongside Mehmet Korutürk (President) and designer Thierry Fischer.

Yet radical propositions have multiplied in recent years across the watchmaking landscape. How does one stand out amid such creative effervescence in high watchmaking?

The brand refined its plan before revealing itself to the world. Founded as early as 2017 (though many assume it is far more recent), Vanguart first spent several years operating under the radar, entirely dedicated to R&D. In 2021, the Black Hole was unveiled. In 2024, the Orb confirmed the project’s maturity and firmly placed the brand on collectors’ radar.

In the meantime, key partners such as Material Good, Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons and Dubai Watch Week – along with highly visible collectors like Michael Jordan and Ed Sheeran – propelled the young maison into the spotlight. But behind the global exposure, the structure remains artisanal, concentrated in La Chaux-de-Fonds, and true to one ambition: produce little, but make a strong impact. Our conversation with Mehmet Korutürk.

Devoid of a traditional display, this new rose gold Black Hole relies on the movement’s three-dimensional structure to reveal a play of shadows and reflections, animated by microblasted and polished surfaces.

Europa Star: Let’s go back to the beginning. How did the idea for Vanguart come about?

Mehmet Korutürk: It all started well before the official founding. Axel and Jérémy were working at APRP alongside Giulio Papi on extremely complicated movements for houses such as Audemars Piguet, Richard Mille and Chanel. For my part, I was active in private equity and Formula 1, notably with Genii Capital, owner of Lotus Renault F1.

We met Thierry Fischer in this creative environment. He had created a graduation video around a project called “Black Hole.” When we discovered his work, we were struck by the strength of the concept. We told ourselves: one day, we will make that piece.

This new version of the Black Hole introduces a dial adorned with applied, hand-painted Arabic numerals. The model retains Vanguart’s signature technical features — a levitating flying tourbillon, linear time display and a three-level concentric construction. Its Grade 5 titanium case enhances the overall lightness and stability, while the anthracite PVD dial accentuates the depth of the indications.

Why take the leap in 2017?

Axel and Jérémy had come to the end of certain major projects. They had worked on movements such as the HYT H2 and H3 in a highly experimental context. At a certain point, the desire to create something completely free became irresistible. Axel and Jérémy then founded a development office, TimeForge.

The idea of a brand soon took shape. The name Vanguart – a contraction of “avant-garde” and “art” – came naturally. There were four of us: Thierry, Axel, Jérémy and myself. Each with our own expertise, but a shared vision.

Launched in 2021, the Black Hole redefines time display with its three rotating discs and suspended tourbillon.

Then came the Black Hole, your first piece launched in 2021. What was your thinking behind its development?

We did not want to make a “simple” tourbillon, as so many exist. We wanted to demonstrate what we were capable of, so we started from scratch. The Black Hole is built around three concentric rotating discs, a linear time display and a flying tourbillon. The technical challenge was considerable: making these masses rotate, managing energy, ensuring stability. It was a true kinetic architecture.

At first, the piece was sometimes misunderstood. The very clean dial did not immediately reveal the complexity of the movement. There was a gap between mechanical sophistication and visual perception.

Launched in 2024, the Vanguart Orb incorporates a rare innovation: a hybrid movement offering the choice between automatic and manual winding.

So it was the next piece, the Orb launched in 2024, that marked the real turning point?

Yes. While the Black Hole was highly conceptual, the Orb was more immediate in its perception, more “readable”: a round case, a symmetrical movement, two hands, and above all a hybrid movement allowing either automatic or manual winding – already a complication in itself. We hit the mark with this piece, which quickly gained traction, notably thanks to partners such as Material Good in New York and Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons in Dubai. Three years ago at Dubai Watch Week, people put us on the watchmaking map. Then with the Orb, everything aligned.

The brand’s visibility also exploded with certain personalities…

We are fortunate to have passionate and highly knowledgeable collectors. They are not just celebrities; they are respected connoisseurs in the independent scene.

Michael Jordan recently wore the Orb during a major interview in the United States. Ed Sheeran, John Mayer, Bad Bunny… They are enthusiasts of independent watchmaking. They purchased our pieces, sometimes with modifications, though not radically different unique pieces. This provides incredible visibility, but our priority remains the product.

Vanguart’s avant-garde, exclusive and ultra-high-performance models have attracted numerous high-profile personalities — particularly in the United States — including Michael Jordan, significantly accelerating the brand’s rise in prominence.

Where do you stand today in terms of structure?

We are still in our historic premises in La Chaux-de-Fonds, in former Vulcain workshops. The site once also housed a video studio for Breitling. The atmosphere has remained very much a “start-up” one.

We are around 20 people: designers, technical office, decoration, assembly. We do not have in-house machine tools but work with a strong network of subcontractors. We oversee project management, decoration and assembly internally. Last year, we produced 15 pieces. Our theoretical capacity is around 100 pieces, but we prefer controlled growth.

Vanguart has also become the Official Timekeeper of the Ballon d’Or.

You returned to the origins of the brand by enriching the Black Hole collection at Dubai Watch Week.

Yes, we presented two new interpretations: a rose gold version and an edition with applied and hand-painted Arabic numerals. It is an important evolution, as we worked more extensively on métiers d’art, ornamentation and dial depth. The Grade 5 titanium version with anthracite PVD dial and Arabic numerals adds a new dimension.

How are they positioned?

Prices are CHF 355,000 for the Arabic numeral version and CHF 410,000 for the rose gold version. We produce around five Black Hole pieces per year. These watches require an enormous amount of time.

The Black Hole’s Grade 5 titanium movement features an in-house developed levitating flying tourbillon; time-setting is operated via a high-precision joystick.

In the long term, what is your ambition in terms of volumes and the size of the brand?

We do not want to remain “microscopic” in terms of volume, but we refuse brutal growth. Within five years, 300 pieces per year could be a reasonable objective.

Today, we already struggle to deliver. We want to consolidate our organization and perhaps develop more physical presentation points, because our pieces cannot always be fully understood in photographs. They must be seen, worn, experienced.

What is the next step?

We will enrich the Orb with new complications. Then launch a new line, with different shapes. The idea is not to repeat ourselves, but to continue exploring.

In one sentence, what does Vanguart represent for you?

The freedom to create without compromise, with the standards of haute horlogerie – and the desire to leave a mark.

During her victory at the Australian Open, Elena Rybakina wore the Vanguart Orb, featuring a rose gold case paired with a white rubber strap.