n September, while the breeze over Victoria Harbour still carried a humid, sultry air, the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre (HKCEC) was already abuzz with a different kind of fervour. It was here that the 45th Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair and the 14th Salon de TIME, jointly organised by the Hong Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC), Hong Kong Watch Manufacturers Association Limited and The Federation of Hong Kong Watch Trades & Industries Limited, officially opened under the theme “Sparkling Moments Through Time”.

The five-day physical fairs, taking place from 1 to 5 September, attracted over 630 exhibitors from 16 countries and regions. Industry leaders, brand founders, market analysts, independent watchmakers, watch collectors, and watch and clock traders from around the world gathered in Hong Kong. In this city—where profound Eastern cultural heritage converged with an international, open-minded vision—they engaged in a transcendent dialogue on time that spanned mountains and seas.

Upon entering the exhibition hall, one was immediately immersed in the subtle ticking of movements from various brands, the scattered reflections of light off polished cases, and the hum of conversations in various international languages. The Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair featured multiple thematic zones covering every segment of the watchmaking value chain. Among them, Pageant of Eternity showcased premium finished watches from original equipment manufacturers (OEMs) and original design manufacturers (ODMs).

Other exhibition zones covered a comprehensive range of products and services, including Complete Watches, Clocks, Machinery & Equipment, Packaging & Display, Parts, Components & Accessories, offering buyers a convenient one-stop sourcing platform. In addition, to celebrate the 45th edition of the Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair, a “Time Tunnel” had been specially created, allowing visitors to trace the fair’s journey since its inception in 1982, with scenes of its history unfolding before their eyes, from the first edition to the grand occasion of today.

This year, Salon de TIME reached a new high, attracting more than 150 watch brands from around the world. The event featured six thematic zones, including Microbrands, where both the number of participating countries and regions and the number of brands more than doubled compared with the previous year. A longstanding highlight of the fair, the World Brand Piazza returned for its 16th consecutive year, in collaboration with Prince Jewellery & Watch, showcasing luxury creations from six internationally renowned watch brands: Baume & Mercier, Corum, DeWitt, Franck Muller, Montblanc and Sarcar.

Other themed zones included Chic & Trendy, Craft Treasure, Renaissance Moment and Wearable Tech. Under the spotlights, timepieces in glass display cases reflected a captivating brilliance, as visitors lingered among them, occasionally whispering in admiration. Unlike previous years, many booths this year saw influencers setting up mobile phones and turning on ring lights to start live-streaming sales, directly transforming the exhibition hall into live-streaming studios.

The fair featured more than 40 events throughout its duration, including forums, seminars, watch parades and networking sessions, providing a platform for in-depth industry exchange and knowledge sharing for all participants. On the opening day, the Hong Kong International Watch Forum brought together leaders of watch associations from the Chinese Mainland, Germany, France, Switzerland, Japan and Korea. Using data as their pen and trends as their ink, they shared the latest trade statistics and industry developments in their respective markets, painting a real-time map of the global watch industry.

The following day, the Asian Watch Conference, themed “Hong Kong as the hub of International Watch Trades”, focused on trade and channels. The market insights of Euromonitor International, the global connectivity of Chrono24, and the e-commerce capabilities of Lazada Hong Kong together charted a clear path for the industry to reach global markets.

Reading Global Trends, Feeling the Industry’s Pulse

On the opening day, the Hong Kong International Watch Forum centered on two core themes:“Latest Regional Trade Performance of the Watch Industry”and “AI and Smartwatches: The Convergence of Tradition and Technology and its New Industrial Possibilities.” The forum brought together leaders and representatives of watch associations from Switzerland, the Chinese Mainland, France, Germany, Japan and Korea.

Using detailed data, they shared the latest trade statistics and industry developments in their respective markets, offering a real-time snapshot of the global watch industry. Through rational discourse, they probed the boundaries between technology and humanity, exploring new opportunities arising from the integration of traditional watchmaking craftsmanship with emerging technologies.

Mr Benjamin Hui took the lead in presenting the Hong Kong market data. According to the latest statistics, in value terms Hong Kong was the world’s largest importer and second largest exporter of completed watches in 2025. In Jan-Jun 2026, Hong Kong’s total watch and clock exports grew by 7% compared with the preceding year. Hong Kong’s watch and clock companies are shifting from original equipment manufacturing (OEM) and original design manufacturing (ODM) to original brand manufacturing (OBM), and are actively embracing emerging opportunities in smart watches, sustainability and advanced manufacturing technologies.

By the sheer scale of its output, the developments of China’s watch industry never fail to capture the attention of the global supply chain. Mr Lyu Cheng, President of the China Horologe Association, presented the latest Chinese market data at the forum. In 2025, the total industrial output value of China’s watch manufacturing industry exceeded 60 billion RMB (approximately 8.6 billion USD), representing a year-on-year decrease of 1.43%. The total import and export value of watches and clocks reached 8.127 billion USD, down 4% year on year.

In the first half of 2026, the industry showed a notable recovery. The operating revenue of major enterprises increased by 4.52% year on year; the cumulative export value reached 2.394 billion USD, up 2.84% year on year; and the cumulative import value stood at 1.602 billion USD, a year-on-year increase of 4.35%. President Lyu Cheng stated: “Overall, in the first half of 2026, the economic operation pressure on China’s watch and clock industry continued to increase. Domestic watch and clock consumption remained sluggish, enterprises saw revenue growth without corresponding profit increase, and their development continued to be under pressure.”

In contrast to the pressure faced by the Chinese market, Korea and Japan, both in the Asian region, have delivered impressive import and export figures in their watch industries in recent years. Data disclosed by Mr Kim Dae-boong, Executive Director of the Korea Watch & Clock Industry Cooperative, showed that in 2025, Korea’s watch and clock imports increased by 9% year on year, and continued to grow by 6% in the first half of 2026. Meanwhile, exports in 2025 surged by 118% year on year. Mr Yoshihiro Kubo, General Manager of the Japan Clock & Watch Association, noted that in the first half of 2026, domestic shipments of finished watches in Japan reached 3.364 million units, a year-on-year increase of 15%, and global exports reached 118.468 billion Japanese yen, up 25% year on year.

As a global benchmark for high-end watchmaking, the data from Switzerland undoubtedly serves as a bellwether. Figures presented by Mr Thierry Dubois, Managing Director Asia Pacific of the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry FH, showed that from January to July 2026, Swiss watch exports increased by 0.9% year on year, with exports of electronic watches rising by 7.8%, while exports of mechanical watches decreased slightly by 0.1%. The high-end watch market remained robust. In terms of regional distribution, Asia accounted for 44% (+0.5%) of Swiss watch exports, Europe for 31% (+4.8%), and the Americas for 23% (-4.1%). Mr Dubois specifically stated: “We are very pleased to see that exports of Swiss watches to Hong Kong have gone up during the first seven months of this year.”

If Switzerland represents the pinnacle of European watchmaking, then France demonstrates another kind of vitality in the European watch market with its unique industrial ecosystem. Mr Pierre Burgun, President of France Horlogerie, shared that in 2025, the French watch industry generated 425 million Euros in revenue, a year-on-year increase of 0.4%. Since 2021, cumulative growth has reached 24.6%, making France the world’s fourth largest exporter of watch products. In the first half of 2026, French watch production increased by 9% year on year, with nearly 79% of its revenue coming from overseas markets, including Europe and beyond. Mr Burgun stated: “French watchmaking is compact but dynamic, innovative, and highly international. Our mission is to strengthen our industrial ecosystem and increase the international visibility of French watchmaking.”

Unlike the optimistic narrative from France, the German representative discerned a layer of hidden concern behind the impressive figures. Dr Guido Grohmann, Managing Director of the German Association of Jewellery, Watches, Silverware and Related Industries (BVSU), introduced that in 2025, the total exports of German watches, clocks and parts reached 2.015 billion Euros, a year-on-year increase of 6.8%. In the first half of 2026, German exports continued to grow, reaching 989 million Euros, up 5.0% year on year. Imports rose surprisingly by 8.9%. In terms of the retail market, since the beginning of this year, the German domestic watch market has grown steadily, remaining largely at pre-COVID levels.

However, Dr Grohmann still expressed concern: “The situation measured in Euro is not bad at all. But what you have to understand here is that these numbers include sales of what we can do. Actually, all those figures that we are looking at today paint a much more positive picture than the reality is. When inflation is taken into account combined with rising raw material prices driven primarily by the mentioned geopolitical tensions, the situation the retail trade is facing is quite alarming.”

Subsequently, in the panel discussion on “AI and Smartwatches – The Convergence of Tradition and Technology and its new industrial possibilities”, representatives from various national watch associations shared their views on topics such as the impact of AI on the watch industry, the relationship between smartwatches and traditional watchmaking, and future business models, leading to engaging and diverse exchanges of perspectives.

Mr Lyu Cheng, President of the China Horologe Association, believes that AI is deeply empowering the entire watchmaking value chain. China leads the world in foundational AI, and its open-source large models and low usage costs are significant advantages. AI is expected to accelerate the bridging of shortcomings in China’s high-end complicated watchmaking. Meanwhile, smart wearables pose both challenges and opportunities to traditional watchmaking, which can force the industry to strive for continuous improvement and excellence.

The German representative, Dr Guido Grohmann, emphasized that the core value of AI lies in the optimization of production processes rather than the piling up of functions. The French representative, Mr Pierre Burgun, advocated maintaining an open mind towards new technologies but not blindly following trends. The Japanese representative, Mr Yoshihiro Kubo, upheld that traditional craftsmanship and emotional value remain irreplaceable. The consensus among all parties is that AI will not replace traditional watchmaking, but rather serves as a key force driving industrial upgrading.

From data to perspectives, from regional trade to technological transformation, this forum painted a panoramic picture of the global watch industry navigating changes and searching for direction. As Mr Kan Lam, Chairman of the Federation of Hong Kong Watch Trades & Industries Ltd, stated: “Currently, the global watch industry stands at the intersection of transformation and innovation. In an ever-changing market environment, a company’s competitiveness lies not only in managing risks, but also in seizing the new opportunities brought by change. We need to deepen regional cooperation with a more open vision.”

The data and debates at the forum outlined the macro-level contours of the industry, while the timepieces being launched, displayed, and worn in the exhibition halls made those trends tangibly within reach. From material innovation to the evolution of design language, and from functional breakthroughs to the shift in cultural expression, all cutting-edge signals of the industry found their most direct answers here. At this year’s Fair, different brands presented their annual masterpieces, ranging from the cultural expressions of domestic brands to the new classics of international brands, making the entire viewing experience a continuous stream of delightful surprises.

Eastern Watchmaking, New Works Unveiled

On the afternoon of September 2, FOSUN Watch Group, together with its two major Chinese watch brands—SEAGULL Watch and SHANGHAI Watch—held a global new product launch ceremony at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre (HKCEC) under the theme “Chinese Watchmaking Since 1955: Two Stars Shining in Hong Kong”. Mr Xu Chuangyue, CEO of FOSUN Watch Group, Chairman and General Manager of SEAGULL Watch Group, and Chairman of SHANGHAI Watch, stated: “Chinese watchmaking not only possesses the strength to engage in equal dialogue with the world’s top standards, but also has the confidence to set standards and define trends. What SEAGULL and SHANGHAI present to the world are not just precise timepieces and sophisticated technology, but also the warm, story-rich Eastern time aesthetics of the Chinese people.”

Ms Yolanda Zhang, General Manager of SHANGHAI Watch, took the lead in unveiling the annual new creations. The ORIGINATE Collection Fangyu makes its global debut at this year’s Fair. Inspired by the enclosed courtyard architecture of The Bund City Hall Plaza in Shanghai, the ORIGINATE Collection Fangyu Watch translates the century-old architectural form onto the wrist. The precisely cut square case features subtly rounded chamfers, echoing the fan-shaped porticos and capturing the grandeur of the century-old enclosed courtyard, known as the “No. 1 enclosed courtyard in the Far East”.

A refined grained texture on the dial echoes the terrazzo surface of the building’s stone walls, complemented by baton hour markers and the minute track. Sword-shaped hands and a lollipop seconds hand feature luminous details, balancing legibility with aesthetics. The watch is fitted with an Alcantara^® strap, offering a soft, suede-like touch. Through the sapphire crystal exhibition caseback, the automatic movement is fully revealed, showcasing its meticulous craftsmanship.

The ORIGINATE Collection A623 Revival Watch (Shanhe) revives the A623 calendar watch worn by Premier Zhou Enlai during his lifetime. The A623 accompanied the Premier to numerous important diplomatic occasions, witnessing countless handshakes and dialogues. It has long transcended its function as a mere timekeeping instrument, becoming a symbol of peace and friendship on the wrist.

Also on display was SHANGHAI Watch’s cross-border collaboration with British artist Matt Anderson. Using the ORIGINATE Collection Military 114 Watch and the ORIGINATE Collection Aesthetic Engraving Watch as his canvases, Anderson brought Western artistic expression and the brand’s Eastern heritage together on the wrist, making each hand-painted timepiece a unique story.

Subsequently, Mr Xu Chuangyue, Chairman and General Manager of SEAGULL Watch Group, officially unveiled two high-complication timepieces paying tribute to Chinese watchmaking.

The Long Yu Qian Yin Grand & Small Strike Mechanical Wristwatch draws its design inspiration from the Nine Dragons scroll by Chen Rong of the Southern Song dynasty, using a sterling silver dial to depict a divine dragon emerging from and disappearing into surging auspicious clouds. Precision engraving intertwines with intangible cultural heritage gold carving and Xiong-style enamel craftsmanship, presenting flowing clouds and undulating dragon scales in varying shades of ink, condensing the majestic essence of Song dynasty painting within the compact space of the wrist.

The Rui Shou Si Heng 4-in-1 Mechanical Wristwatch draws its design inspiration from Suanni, the auspicious dragon-born beast from Tang-Song censers. Intangible cultural heritage gold carving extends the Suanni and swirling lion-mane scrolls onto the case and lugs, while the silver dial, combined with enamel craftsmanship, creates a flowing visual layer reminiscent of smoke and clouds. Four independent sub-dials guard the four cardinal directions, with seal script elements corresponding to the temporal order of month, day, weekday, and week, integrating traditional cultural imagery into the complex functional layout.

Also debuting on the same stage was SEAGULL’s first square movement, the ST1840. It explores the spatial layout of the movement with a square structure, presenting the mechanical texture in the natural, unplated metal hue of German silver. Finishing techniques such as chamfering and polishing, sandblasting, and swirl patterns on the main wheel, together with the use of colorless jewel bearings, a free-sprung balance, and a four-weight balance wheel, further reflect the brand’s continuous exploration of precise performance and independent movement development.

Over the 71 years of Chinese watchmaking, SEAGULL Watch and SHANGHAI Watch have coexisted and complemented each other. SEAGULL Watch has built its foundation on precision-driven manufacturing, continuously pushing the boundaries of China’s precision watchmaking; while SHANGHAI Watch has persisted in its Eastern aesthetic narrative, conveying the beauty of the East to the world. Their latest masterpieces have elevated the Eastern aesthetic expression and complications of Chinese watchmaking to new heights.

In contrast, Franck Muller, with its consistent avant-garde stance, uses exaggerated designs and a complex mechanical language to tell a story of Geneva’s madness and elegance.

Horological Rhapsody, Artistic Rebirth

During the 45th Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair, Franck Muller interpreted the theme of “Creative Collision of Art and Time” through a distinctive launch event. Mr Francis Phua, Managing Director of Franck Muller Hong Kong, and Mr Noel Wong, Discerning Commentator and Founder of Watch The World, took the stage for an engaging dialogue that brought the event to a lively climax.

The all-new Vanguard Lady Crazy Hours Jisbar timepiece was undoubtedly the centerpiece of the event. This legendary and iconic jumping hour complication has been reinterpreted by the French contemporary artist JISBAR (Jean-Baptiste Launay) with bold colors and modern elements. It serves not only as an avant-garde tribute to time, but also as an expression of unbridled freedom.

On the dial, patterns and hour markers intertwine to create a visual riddle, with each numeral rendered in his signature visual style: 12 becomes a cloud, 1 is written as “ONE”, 5 transforms into “√25”... Reading the time thus becomes a fun game. Mr Francis Phua, Managing Director of Franck Muller Hong Kong, joked, “When someone sneaks a peek at your time, they’re bound to get it wrong,” drawing knowing smiles from the audience.

Crossover collaborations have become a major trend in the watch industry, with the names of contemporary artists such as KAWS, Takashi Murakami and Banksy frequently appearing on the collaboration lists of major brands. Mr Phua revealed that, following last year’s men’s model, the brand has launched the Hello Kitty collection first in Hong Kong within the Asia-Pacific region, and is now seeking artists from mainland China, hoping to kick off the next collaboration with classic Chinese aesthetics. The two-decade-old Crazy Hours icon is now being taken to new heights — which is perhaps Franck Muller’s craziest yet most elegant interpretation of “independent watchmaking.”

Beyond the highly anticipated new product launches mentioned above, the stage of this year’s Fair saw a continuous rotation of new releases from a wider array of brands. Brands such as FIYTA and PEACOCK each presented their latest masterpieces. Meanwhile, numerous microbrands injected fresh energy into the event with their unique designs and creativity. Notably, the Fair specially hosted “Tick-Tock Showtime: The Media Spotlight Pitch”, which not only provided an opportunity for smaller brands to step into the limelight, but also brought diverse horological aesthetics to a wider audience.

Three media representatives from Indonesia, the Middle East, and Hong Kong served as the judges for this event, while the participating brands were primarily independent watchmakers and microbrands, showcasing diverse creative directions.

Among them, Hong Kong brand LEGER A.FAH presented three creations at once — the Momentous instant-jump-hour wristwatch, the Whistle 1928 mechanical animation wristwatch, and the VibroShield shock-resistant wristwatch. GB VINTAGE, also a Hong Kong brand, stood out with the unique colour palette of its CRT36, while Artra presented its first Camera One wristwatch. Additionally, echo/neutra — Italian by design and Swiss by construction — made a remarkable appearance with its Rivanera ultra-thin titanium wristwatch, crafted from Grade 5 titanium, with a case thickness of just 5.5 mm, and a total weight of only 21 grams. Ten independent watchmaking brands spanning Hong Kong and Europe competed on the same stage.

This “Media Spotlight Pitch” brought brand presentations and media judging together on the same spotlight stage — microbrands were no longer merely exhibitors behind display cases; instead, they stepped into the limelight, using their narratives to face the scrutiny of professional media. It provided a rare window of exposure for emerging watchmaking forces, and built a high-end platform for dialogue on horological culture dissemination and industry trends, allowing the voice of independent watchmaking to be truly heard by the world under the spotlight of the Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair.

Yet, the world of horology extends far beyond the wrist. Accessories, storage and care — the niche segments that surround a wristwatch — are equally worthy of attention. WOLF 1834, a heritage luxury accessories maison with nearly two centuries of history, made its debut during the 2026 Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair. It held a launch event themed “Time Legacy” to share its brand philosophy of crafting for heirlooms.

As stated by the brand representative: “We come from the jewellery trade — we’re jewellers, both of us. It’s a family business spanning five generations and almost two hundred years. And we’ve devoted ourselves to creating a custom space where you can store all those beautiful things, from timepieces to jewellery.” Whether it is the composed operation of a precision movement, or the delicate texture of leather, woodwork, and metal finishing, the brand reaffirmed its unwavering original intention of “protecting cherished possessions with exquisite cases” during its debut at this Asian horological grand event.

Dialogue with the World, Encounter with the Self

As one of the world’s most influential horological events, this Fair has long transcended a mere trade platform to become an annual ritual of a city’s dialogue with time. From a former fishing village to today’s international financial hub, from the clanging trams to the fast-paced trading floors where every second counts, “punctuality” and “precision” are etched into the very DNA of this city.

Chinese and Western cultures have converged here for a century, accumulating the Eastern artisan spirit while embracing Western precision mechanical aesthetics — and horology is precisely the most exquisite crystallization of these two civilizations. When you step into the exhibition hall, what you touch is not merely the operation of individual movements, but the pulse of a city’s century-long symbiosis with time.

Each year, a visit to the Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair yields new rewards. Here, one can discover business opportunities among the exhibition booths, read the shifting fortunes of the global industry, and witness an industry growing and pressing forward amid the tides of the times. Yet, what the Fair gives us goes far beyond all this.

From the hands of an artisan to precision manufacturing on the factory floor, and on to creative expressions from diverse cultural backgrounds, a small wristwatch weaves together the entire tapestry of technology, art, culture, and life. When we pause here to gaze at a timepiece, what we see is not just gears and jewels, nor merely the rise and fall of an industry or the prevailing trends of an era. But we also see ourselves — being shaped by time, yet actively choosing our time. This is perhaps why the Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair draws us back year after year: by the Victoria Harbour, at the confluence of time, we are in dialogue with the world, and encountering ourselves.