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Zodiac – Zodia-Chron (1953)
For many years, Zodiac was considered a watchmaker that never
failed to push back the limits of design. The Astrographic and
Olympos might demonstrate this, but the brand’s boldness is not
limited to three hands, and the Zodia-Chron perfectly embodies
its creativity. Launched in 1953, this luxury chronograph appeared
on the market one year before the Rolex Cosmograph Pre Daytona
models were released. This chronograph has it all: the Valjoux 72
(the Rolls Royce of chronograph movements), a tachymetric bezel
rather similar to that of a Speedmaster, and a sublime brushed dial
with infinite undertones and subtle red touches on the markers.
Difficult to capture in a photograph, this rare, elegant piece features
a design with a nearly perfect balance so characteristic of the time.
Mathey-Tissot ( 1970)
With its Supercompressor case, its Singer dial that has
browned with age, its minute counter with regatta markers
and a bright red direct-drive seconds hand in the same hue as
the markers, this Mathey-Tissot chronograph is flawless. The
40 mm watch is of a considerable size for the time, bringing
it a certain modern touch. This magnificent piece is driven
by the faithful, robust and handsome Valjoux 72 calibre.
Universal Genève Space Compax ( 1969)
Universal and its chronographs require no introduction: they are
renowned and sought-after by collectors, but this rare – and, to say
the least, original – example deserves special attention. Its case
becomes deliberately thicker around the push-pieces, much like
the case of its cousin, the Polerouter Sub; its screw-in crown and
rubber push-pieces betray its diving capacities. In fact, with a water
resistance of up to 200 metres, this Universal is one of the last "tool
watches" produced by the Geneva-based watchmaker, which began
producing practically all its watches in quartz shortly afterwards.
As if that weren’t enough to set it apart, the art deco 12 hour marker
adds a funky little touch that makes this watch truly lovable.
Seiko 7A28-703 Synchrotimer (1983)
Some people call this timepiece the Poor Man’s Speedmaster. I
wouldn’t go so far, but it is undeniable that the 7A28-703 Seiko
Synchrotimer chronograph has its own special identity. First of
all, it is necessary to point out that this chronograph has a quartz
movement... But not just any quartz movement: it is a mechanical/
quartz combination with an independent motor for each subcounter
and 15 jewels on the mechanical part. The electronic portion
offers a reliability and precision far beyond the performances of
a strictly mechanical movement. The built-in strap and gold-tone
part of the tachymeter bring it a unique, very ’80s look. In fact, this
watch has a special pedigree, since another version of the 7A28
was worn by Roger Moore in the James Bond film A View to a Kill.
Citizen Record Master (1967)
A lot of people are familiar with the Citizen Bullhead chronograph,
but few know that the Japanese brand also produced a handwound
and column-wheel mechanical chronograph. Its limited
production and late launch, in 1967, brought it only modest
success. Nevertheless, this chronograph has real charm. Its
streamlined aesthetic, mechanical simplicity, rudimentary
display (devoid of a minute counter), lovely steel strap and
reasonable price all make it a unique, truly desirable object.
Wakmann Triple Date Chronograph - ref. 72.1309.70 ( 1960)
Wakmann Watch Company is an American brand founded in
1946 that became famous through its partnership with Breitling,
for which the company retailed “Wakmann” brand watches
designed for the American market. The Triple Date Chronograph
is surely the brand’s most successful model. Equipped with
the Valjoux 730 (a more high-performance version of the
Valjoux 72 at 21600 vph), it features not only a chronograph
but also displays the date, day and month, making it the
perfect tool for daily use. Despite all these complications, the
magnificent “panda” dial remains balanced and understated.
Mido Multi Centerchrono ( 1940)
Once you get into the production and history of the brand Mido,
you will be amazed by the variety of products and their unique
aesthetic, characterised by a surprising orange patina. The Multi
Centerchrono, developed in the midst of WWII, offers a striking
design and a higher legibility compared to a two-counter
chronograph. In fact, the minute counter is located in the white
area surrounding the dial, and the red direct-drive hand indicates
passing minutes. With its modest 34.5 mm diameter, the Mido
is characteristic of pieces from the 1940s which symbolise the
golden age of watchmaking design. Equipped with the 1300
calibre based on the Valjoux 23, this Mido is not just another
pretty face; it is noble and reliable. Beautiful inside and out!
Angelus Medical chronograph ( 1965)
No need to be a doctor to appreciate this timepiece by Angelus.
The brand, renowned for its manufacture calibres, brings
us a truly functional tool in an aesthetically appealing form.
Designed to calculate patients’ heart rates, the chronograph
can be used to time either respiration or pulse. A particularly
surprising detail: the plexiglas crystal features a cyclops that
covers the base 10 pulsation section of the dial. This piece,
equipped with a modified version of the Valjoux 22, is particularly
rare, especially with the two-push-piece configuration.
Longines Conquest 1972 Olympico
For Longines, the Conquest ref. 8614 is the quintessence of 1970s
watchmaking design. It was designed for the Games of the XX
Olympiad in Munich, held in 1972, which became unfortunately
memorable because they were interrupted by a terrible tragedy.
The watch is driven by an in-house manufacture single-pushpiece
chronograph. Its rudimentary simplicity reflects its
utilitarian profile, bringing it a unique charm. The dial makes me
smile, personally, since the single counter at 3 o’clock brings to
mind a monocle and I can’t help but think of Mr Monopoly.
Seiko 5718 Olympic Chronograph (1964)
Produced for the 1964 Olympics in Tokyo, the reference 5718 is
surely the rarest chronograph – if not the rarest timepiece – ever
produced by the Japanese watchmaker. Its cousins, the 5717 and
5718, were also designed for the Olympics, but they are more
rudimentary, since they do not feature a minute counter or the
incredible manual counter. The manual counter, which is activated
by the left-hand push-pieces, was probably designed to count
runners crossing the finish line. By activating the upper push-piece,
you progress along the numbers 0 to 9 in the counter to the right,
while the lower push-piece activates the counter to the left. The
minute counter also includes a seconds hand. The column-wheel
movement that drives this exceptional piece was manufactured
by Seiko exclusively for this model. Its scale-design strap brings
a unique harmony and truly Japanese soul to the chronograph.
