highlights


For use and abuse: sports watches 2008

Español 中文
July 2008



Last year was the year of the Sports Watch pretender - a lot of watches were introduced that looked sporty but really didn’t fit the bill. This year at Basel and SIHH, the sheer numbers of sports watches introduced were down, but the quality and legitimacy of the watches was way up. This year, brands brought out serious sports watches, designed to be used and abused, which always makes me smile.I am a confirmed lover of sports watches – the more technical and hard edged the better, and this year didn’t disappoint.

Definitions
First off, it’s important to define what constitutes a sports watch. To me and to the people who buy and use sports watches, a sports watch has a minimum set of characteristics that make it different from other watches on the market. Here they are:
Water resistance - at least 100 metres (10 ATMs), for diving watches minimum of 200 metres (20 ATMs).
Durability – a sports watch will go through the wars, so the case, strap and crystal have to be rugged and durable. People expect to be able to mistreat their sports watches, so these timepieces have to be able to, as Timex used to say, ‘take a licking and keep on ticking’.
Legibility – a sports watch has to be very legible, because you can’t stop what you are doing to read your watch, you have to be able to read it at a glance, while you are on the move.
Luminosity – you never know when a sports watch will be used, so it needs to be able to be seen in the dark, either through a backlight, the application of Superluminova or the use of Tritium tubes.
Extra features - sports or activity-specific watches often have features that are specifically designed for use during certain ac-tivities. For example, vehicle racing-themed watches often have tachymeter scales on the bezel or inside the dial to make calculating land speed easier. Dive watches usually offer a unidirectional bezel for marking time left underwater, and some even have depth gauges built in. Pilot’s watches are often chronographs and feature calculations (like gross weight or air temperature, etc.).
Here is a look at the newest and most exciting sports watches introduced at BaselWorld and SIHH.

In the air
The Citizen Promaster SST is the latest in a long line of full featured, Eco-Drive pilot-specific watches – in addition to offering world time, an alarm, a 1/1000th second chronograph and 200 metre water resistance, you can calculate land speed, measure splits (and keep laps in memory) and compute all sorts of things with the slide rule bezel. An incredible watch, at a very affordable price.
The Oris BC4 Flight Timer makes keeping track of the time easy while you are flying around the world, or just trying to figure out what time your appointment is. A second time zone with a day/night window is displayed at three o’clock, while the vertical crown at two o’clock turns the inner dial ring to show a third time zone. Adjusting the time zones is done with simple pushers.


SportsWatches

PROMASTER SST by Citizen, BC4 by Oris, LINEAR CHRONOGRAPH by TX


Graham’s Chronofighter Oversize GMT Big Date BRG (British Racing Green) is a stunning chronograph with the brand’s signature ‘left hand drive’ controls. The use of the traditional British colour is very distinctive, as is the oversize GMT hand. The large push button on the left side for the operation of the chronograph is easy to use and attractive.
Fortis, renowned for its professional pilot’s watches and watches that have gone into space, introduced the B-42 Titanium chronograph this year. This new watch features a tachymeter scale on the flange, a double coated, anti-reflective sapphire crystal and a screw down case back, which allows a water resistance of 200 metres.
Hamilton introduced the X-Copter this year, dedicated to helicopter pilots and those that love these flying machines. The timepiece includes two vital calculations needed by helicopter pilots – a Fahrenheit/Celsius temperature converter and a Maximum Take-off Weight (M.T.O.W.) calculator. Design details are influenced by the helicopter theme, with the chronograph counters framed with small dots like the rivets used in aerospace construction and the orange touches are emblematic of helicopter navigation. There is even the letter ‘H’ at six o’clock –a miniaturized ‘helipad’ – and a cut-out propeller at the rear of the case to reveal the automatic movement.

On land
This year being an Olympic year, you can count on a number of introductions of Olympic-themed watches from the official timekeeper, Omega. The Beijing Olympic Collection was launched on August 8th last year and more introductions followed (288 days before, 188 days before and 88 days before), and at BaselWorld, Omega introduced the Omega Seamaster XXIX Limited Edition, which will only be available in Beijing and only during the Olympic Games. The initial limited release of 88 numbered Seamaster XXIX watches will take place on the 8th of August 2008 – 08/08/2008 – the day of the Opening Ceremony. Only 88 of these unique Seamasters will be sold each day between the 8th and 24th of August. The Seamaster XXIX has been inspired by its ancestor, the Seamaster XVI, which was specially produced to honour the Games of the XVI Olympiad in Melbourne in 1956 and to celebrate the 25th anniversary of Omega’s role as Official Timekeeper in 1957.
Omega also introduced the ‘Beijing 2008, Unique No. 8 Collection’, a limited edition of one group of special No. 8 timepieces – the group is composed of the eighth numbered piece of each of the 32 Limited Edition watches in the Omega Beijing Olympic Collection, plus three ‘Olympic Split Seconds Chronograph 1932’ pocket watches, also numbered 008 in their limited editions of 100 pieces. The cost? 888,888 Swiss francs.


SportsWatches

CHRONOFIGHTER by Graham, B-42 TITANIUM by Fortis, BEIJING OLYMPIC COLLECTION by Omega


Timex is back on the map with a new series of more design-oriented watches for women – called Timex Ironman Women’s Sleek Collection. Another interesting introduction is the Timex Ironman Wireless Fitness Tracker Digital Transmitter and Watch System, which is designed to be worn all day, every day, and calculates calories, distance, steps and pace. The Wireless Fitness Tracker’s digital transmitter easily clips to the waist and wirelessly relays information to a Timex Ironman Sleek wristwatch that displays the data.
Timex also launched a collection of digital and analogue timepieces for people who love the outdoors, called the Expedition Trail Series collection. Other new introductions include Expedition E-Tide Temp Compass Collection, the next generation of its Timex Ironman 50-Lap Series (100-hour chronograph, 50-lap memory recall, 2 time zones, 24-hour countdown timer and more).
TX introduced a new Linear Chronograph Time Instrument (in 44mm and 47mm), created by Milan-based designer Giorgio Galli, which provides a twist on the traditional chronograph with round sub dials.
Casio showcased its new Radio Controlled Pathfinder watches for the adventurers among watch clients. Chopard introduced the Happy Sport Chrono Mark II All Black, with a black on black dial and dancing white diamonds. Oakley debuted the Crankcase, a Swiss Made timepiece in an impact forged stainless steel case. The Crankcase comes in a chronograph version, as well as two three-hand variations (large and small).
Other notable introductions include the GlaschÜtte Original Sport, the Glam Rock black and red gold chronograph, the JeanRichard Bressel Chronograph for Juventus, Brosway Watches’ official watch of the Italian National Rugby team, Mondaine’s new line of sports watches and the Blancpain Speed Command Chronograph.


SportsWatches

BRESSEL CHRONOGRAPH by JeanRichard, ITALIAN NATIONAL RUGBY TEAM WATCH by Brosway, ORIGINAL SPORT by GlaschÜtte


On the track
Chronographs have been a staple at the racetrack and when car and motorcycle lovers get together. Here are some of the best vehicle-themed watches this year.
A highlight was the introduction of the MV Agusta JeanRichard 1078 Brutale motorcycle, which was shown for the first time in the JeanRichard booth at SIHH. This beautiful, high-end motorcycle is decorated with JeanRichard touches to help publicize the partnership between JeanRichard and MV Agusta. This year’s MV Agusta watches come in the Paramount case, with special MV Agusta badging and a beautiful carbon fibre dial, and a special Chronoscope Brutale collection.
Turning heads at its BaselWorld booth, TAG Heuer had a custom car by Ken Okuyama, who used the new Grand Carrera Calibre 36 RS Caliper Concept Chronograph as the inspiration for the car.
Tissot is the official timer of MotoGP worldwide, with signage and watch sales at the tracks. In addition, the brand is continuing its relationship with MotoGP racer Nicky Hayden, offering a new limited edition mechanical version of its MotoGP watch as a tribute to the American MotoGP champion Hayden, with a special helmet-like case. A new limited edition MotoGP watch was also introduced at BaselWorld, complete with interchangeable casebacks engraved with all the different MotoGP circuits.
Audemars Piguet just introduced a new limited edition of its Royal Oak Offshore Rubens Barrichello chronograph (introduced in 2006) to commemorate his latest achievement - breaking the record for the most F1 Grand Prix entries. The Istanbul Grand Prix, held on May 11th, marked the 257th start of Rubens Barrichello’s career.


SportsWatches

GRAND CARRERA CALIBRE 36 RS by TAG Heuer, MOTOGP by Tissot, ROYAL OAK CARBON by Audemars Piguet


Jacques Lemans presented a new innovative watch called the Turnable Dualtime Chrono-graph. The watch’s case rotates inside the bezel 180 degrees, offering two different dials – one side a chronograph, while the other a standard three hand watch.
Oris is very active in motorsports, sponsoring the Williams F1 team and producing motor racing-themed timepieces. This year, Oris introduced several, including the striking TT3 Chronograph Black, the Oris TT3 Grand Prix Limited Edition (1,800 pieces), with the names of the 18 2008 Formula 1 race tracks printed discreetly in grey on the black dial, the Oris Williams F1 Team Chronograph and the Oris Williams F1 Team Day Date.
Cvstos is working with custom sports car manufacturer Horacio Pagani to develop the Pagani Chronograph Engineered by Cvstos.
Breil just announced its partnership with Ducati and Ducati racing for branded watches that showcase the Ducati style and spirit. Look for the ‘Ducatista’ to jump all over these new timepieces.


SportsWatches

TURNABLE DUALTIME CHRONOGRAPH by Jacques Lemans, TT3 CHRONOGRAPH BLACK by Oris, DUCATI by Ducati


Chopard this year introduced a new Mille Miglia Gran Tourismo XL Chrono Speed and a new Grand Prix de Monaco Historique Chronograph V1.
Sports watch company Reactor uses a custom Suzuki M109R to help publicize its performance watches. Luminox just commissioned two custom bikes to help market its rough and rugged, recently restyled watches, while Tutima has a custom Harley Davidson that the company’s sales manager uses when visiting retailers.
Rounding out the sports watches linked to ve-hicles and racing are the Ferrari Engineered by Officine Panerai 1/8th Second 45mm, the Manometro Alpha watch, the Manometro Contagiri Paul Newman 01, Tissot’s Limited Edition Danica Patrick timepiece to celebrate the first ever Indy Car win by a woman and the Seiko Sportura Honda F1 Racing Alarm Chronograph, Hamilton’s Route 66 and Porsche Design’s Dashboard.


SportsWatches

GRAND PRIX DE MONACO by Chopard, 9125 by Luminox, FERRARI 1-8TH CHRONO engineered by Officine Panerai

SportsWatches

CONTAGIRI by Giuliano Mazzuoli, PAGANI CHRONOGRAPH by Cvstos, PERSHING YACHTS by Parmigiani


In the sea
This year, there are a lot of new diving and sailing watches. Parmigiani and Pershing Yachts have formed a partnership and the result is the creation of the first range of Pershing aquatic sports watches. The Pershing collection comprises two different lines: The limited edition ‘one-one-five’, available in 18 carat rose gold and 950 palladium, created in honour of the biggest and most prestigious Pershing vessel, measuring 115 feet (35 metres), and the non-limited Pershing Chronographs collection, available in steel with four dial variants.
Parmigiani also introduced the Kalpa Hemi-spheres, a new collection dedicated to travel, featuring a highly readable second time zone display, able to be set to accommodate half hour and three quarter hour time zones. Inspired by the odyssey of sailor Bernard Stamm, with his insatiable hunger for round-the-world races and extraordinary challenges, the Kalpa Hemi-spheres is easy to set and to use.
TechnoMarine is back and making a ‘splash’ with the new Diamond Cruise Chrono - a diving watch perfect for cruising on your yacht but able to go under the sea anytime. This 40mm watch is water resistant to 200 metres and features 116 full cut 1.0mm white diamonds.
Zenith turned heads at BaselWorld with its new futuristic Defy Xtreme Zero-G tourbillon with a gyroscope cage, along with a new Defy Xtreme Sea collection, including a tourbillon, chronograph and Open (all water resistant to 1,000 metres). The Defy Xtreme series, built to withstand just about anything short of an explosion, just continues to get stronger. The Defy Classic series saw a Sea version, with a beautiful engraved blue guillochÉ dial and dark blue steel bezel on the three models – Open, Chronograph and Power Reserve.


SportsWatches

SPORTURA HONDA F1 RACING by Seiko, DIAMOND CRUISE CHRONO by TechnoMarine, DEFY XTREME CHRONOGRAPH SEA by Zenith


Officine Panerai introduced the Luminor Regatta Chronograph 44mm this year, another in a series of special edition timepieces Panerai dedicated to the Panerai Classic Yachts Challenge. Equipped to indicate the final five minutes preceding the starting signal of a yacht race, this Regatta Chronograph is water resist-ant to 100 metres.
The new P2004 chronograph movement, entirely made by Panerai, is featured this year in the Luminor Crono Monopulsante In Titanium. Housed in the Luminor 1950 case, this 44mm watch is a manual wind mono-push chronograph with a power reserve of eight days and a second time zone (water resistant to 100 metres).
Tutima, best known for its pilot’s watches, announced at BaselWorld that it is the title sponsor of the World Championships of the J80 yacht class, held on the Schilksee Olympic course in Kiel. The winners will receive a Tutima ‘Yachting’ chronograph with professional regatta countdown display and special engraving.
At the high-end, Girard-Perregaux introduced the Seahawk Pro, which is water resistant to 1,000 metres. The manufacture movement inside is protected by an intricate case, so that the watch can actually be used in the water.


SportsWatches

LUMINOR REGATTA CHRONOGRAPH by Panerai, PACIFIC 300 by Tutima, SEAHAWK PRO by Girard-Perregaux


IWC has introduced a new limited edition of its Aquatimer Chronograph, a tribute to the famous Calypso. This watch is limited to 2,500 pieces.
The success of Corum’s Admiral’s Cup con-tinues with two new watches, the Admiral’s Cup Leap Seconds and the Admiral’s Cup Challenge 44 Split Seconds. The Leap Seconds is a self-winding split-second chronograph with jumping seconds, featuring a new pusher-locking system that prevents inadvertent handling of the chronograph functions. Water resistant to 100 metres, this 48mm watch is easy to read and very handsome. The Challenge 44 Split Seconds is a split second, COSC-certified chronograph that this year is available in red gold and black carbon.
Clerc unveiled the Hydroscaph, a professional diving watch water resistant to 1,000 metres, and featuring a helium valve, a crown-activated rotating bezel, a magnified date display and second time zone. Clerc also uses an adaptable lug mechanism which the company says ensures a perfect fit.


SportsWatches

AQUATIMER CHRONOGRAPH by IWC, ADMIRAL’S CUP LEAP SECOND 48MM by Corum, HYDROSCAPH by Clerc


Hamilton’s BelowZero is a very attractive, rugged timepiece designed for the worst wearers can throw at it. Oversized at 46mm, the BelowZero is water resistant to 1,000 metres.
Linde Werdelin this year debuted the Sea Instrument designed, like the Land Instrument, to work with its Biformeter mechanical watch. The Sea Instrument blends technology, precision and craftsmanship with Danish design and software. Cased in lightweight aluminium, divers can choose either a natural or black anodised aluminium finish (and it is also offered in a small run of 18 carat yellow gold). The data is presented using strong graphical displays on a transreflective colour screen, the first time this technology has been used in a dive computer. The watch displays diver’s depth, dive time, vital decompression stops, temperature, maximum depth and surface interval times and features an advanced three axis compass and a special alarm system to keep divers safe.
Anonimo is celebrating its 10th anniversary this year with a slew of commemorative product. One of the coolest is the Anonimo Polluce 10 anniversary, which is water resistant to 120 ATM, or 1,200 metres. The Kodiak calfskin strap, manufactured and hand finished, allows for extended immersion in water up to 24 continuous hours.


SportsWatches

BELOW ZERO by Hamilton, SEA INSTRUMENT by Linde Werdelin, POLLUCE 10 ANNI by Anonimo


The famous Blancpain 50 Fathoms is available this year in both black (for men) and white (for women).
Ernst Benz introduced a new diving watch, the Great Circle ChronoDiver, based on an Ernst Benz diving watch prototype from the 1980s. Designed and manufactured in Switzerland, the 47mm ChronoDiver’s goal is to provide a precise and legible timepiece underwater. For the launch of the ChronoDiver, Ernst Benz is partnering with Stay-Focused to sponsor SCUBA certification for mobility-challenged young adults.
Rounding out the new water sports watches are the orange-faced Doxa Sub 5000T, Ulysse Nardin’s Maxi Marine Diver Chronograph, Tutima’s new Pacific 300 metre, the new Clerc Hydroscaph (Water resistant to 1,000 metres), the Eterna KonTiki Anniversary watch, the Seiko Velatura 200M Dive Chronograph and the Aquanautic Sub 2 Diver.


SportsWatches

50 FATHOMS by Blancpain, CHRONODIVER by Ernst Benz, SUB 5000T by Doxa

SportsWatches

MAXI MARINE DIVER CHRONOGRAPH by Ulysse Nardin, VELATURA 200M DIVE CHRONOGRAPH by Seiko, AQUANAUTIC SUB 2 DIVER by Aquanautic


This year was definitely a good year for sports watches. People are asking for performance and watch companies have gotten serious about producing these watches.


Source: Europa Star June-July 2008 Magazine Issue