In our Watch Curator ’18 we have made clear the parallel trajectories of connected and
vintage mechanical watches. In this context, things might not be looking so
good for quartz, caught between a rock and a hard place. A programmed
decline would logically have begun with the halting of innovation.
In our Watch Curator ’18 we have made clear the parallel trajectories of connected and
vintage mechanical watches. In this context, things might not be looking so
good for quartz, caught between a rock and a hard place. A programmed
decline would logically have begun with the halting of innovation.
H
owever, the opposite seems to be the case: laboratories have been hard at
work in the field of watch electronics. This issue’s cover star Longines has set
itself the task of achieving quartz ultra precision with their V.H.P. collection.
The company has been using mobile phones to help with quartz precision!
Keeping with the Swatch Group, “mother of all calibres” ETA has also been
innovating in quartz by designing an ultra shock-resistant model. In Japan, Citizen
is also joining the race with a concept calibre that features formidable precision.
The mechanical movement ecosystem is also joining in, with watchmakers
such as Vaucher Manufacture continuing their upmarket offerings.
The field of innovation in movements seems to be thriving: quartz
precision, mechanical elegance, connected hybrids... anything goes!
The field of innovation in movements seems to be thriving: quartz
precision, mechanical elegance, connected hybrids... anything goes!
CITIZEN CALIBRE 0100
In 1975, with the Crystron Mega, Citizen launched the world’s
first quartz watch accurate to ± 3 seconds per year. It then
went on to embrace light-powered technology in the form
of the Eco-Drive to produce highly accurate timepieces. This
year, for its 100th anniversary, Citizen drew on this experience
to achieve yet another milestone: a quartz calibre with an annual
accuracy of… ± 1 second! The extraordinary Calibre 0100,
which runs at a frequency of 8.4 MHz, is a prototype and has
been presented in a pocket watch. We might, however, see first
applications as of next year!
VAUCHER MANUFACTURE SEED VMF 6710
The Seed VMF 6710 is a new high-performance automatic column
wheel chronograph developed by Vaucher Manufacture.
The chronograph complication is more difficult to produce
that one might instinctively think, and it has probably never
been as popular as it is today, so it makes sense to see this
move by the high-end calibres specialist. The chronograph
combines high frequency (5Hz), a column-wheel command,
a vertical clutch and a triple return-to-zero hammer. It is available
in short series.
ETA HEAVYDRIVE
HeavyDrive is ETA’s new system for use in quartz movements,
that will enable them to tolerate heavier hands than is usually
possible. The HeavyDrive can detect, but also most importantly
manage, the effects of impacts. The system’s integrated circuit
prompts the motor to produce an opposing force to counteract
the one caused by the impact. The seconds hand sees a
200% increase in unbalancing mass, while the minutes hand
is increased by 20%. This new technology will be applied to a
collection of 21 movements.
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