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W
atchmaking created essential instruments that drove development in the new era. This was the first wave of globalisation, requiring the world to be split into different time zones to be observed by all countries.
So, where does sport come into all this? Sport was developing in parallel at the same speed, becoming more popular and requiring its own timekeeping instruments with the highest levels of accuracy possible. Sport was an important area of experimentation for watchmaking and a driver for change in itself because it had an essential need for chronographs and timekeeping devices.
Sport was an important area of experimentation for watchmaking and a driver for change in itself because it had an essential need for chronographs and timekeeping devices.
Sport undoubtedly played a key role in the progress of the watchmaking industry and the era as a whole. This role attracted a wider audience and a new audience of enthusiasts.
In today’s world, nobody needs a chronograph on their wrist for their everyday life. But sports watches remain a vestige of the era: reliable accuracy, robust, high performing with an aesthetic appeal that endures.
BREGUET MARINE CHRONOGRAPHE 5527
In 1820, Abraham-Louis Breguet, official timekeeper to the
French Royal Navy since 1815, created the double second
watch, or observation chronometer, a forefather of the modern
chronograph. So, what could be more natural than for the
brand that bears his name to introduce a marine chronograph
with a blue dial and wave motif to recall its origins? The attractive
piece also comes in titanium for the first time, portraying a
sporty character when worn with a rubber strap.
From 20,000 to 50,000$
PATEK PHILIPPE AQUANAUT REF. 5968A
The Aquanaut first appeared in 1997, twenty years after the famous
Nautilus collection, which inspired the Aquanaut, was
launched. At the time, Patek Philippe’s aim for the rounder
watch was to broaden the brand’s appeal to a younger audience.
The ‘wings’ of the Nautilus model were smoothed down
and the watch featured a more square dial and a rubber strap.
Both sporty and stylish, the collection helped the brand attract
new watch fans, grow its clientele, venture into the women’s
watch market and release an interesting range of colours.
Following the introduction of the Travel Time in 2011 (we’d been
waiting a long time) the first chronograph was added to the
watch (calibre CH 28-520 C, automatic flyback chronograph).
Visually, the chronograph’s markers, with a central seconds
hand, peripheral seconds track with quarter-second markers
and 60-minute timer fit seamlessly into the iconic design,
made unique thanks to the orange details that stand out from
the black background. From 20,000 to 50,000$
ROLEX GMT-MASTER II
In 1954, Rolex launched the GMT-Master reference 6524 in
collaboration with the famous Pan Am company. The model
has gone on to become the benchmark for GMT watches. The
watch has gradually undergone various iterations ever since.
Innovation has inched forward without ever affecting the
iconic status of the model. In 1955, the graduated 24-hour disc
of the GMT-Master’s bicolour bezel – which has since become
more than emblematic – was made of Plexiglas. In 1959, it was
made of anodised aluminium. In 2005, high-tech ceramic arrived
on the scene with the GMT-Master II. In 2007, the bezel
and bezel disc were crafted from a single piece of what officially
became known as “Cerachrom”, the name given to the inhouse
technology. The numerals and graduations are moulded
in solid material and PVD-plated with gold or platinum. The
piece is UV-resistant. From 5,000 to 10,000$
TUDOR BLACK BAY GMT
To Tudor, the Black Bay line is “the result of a subtle combination
of historic styles and modern watchmaking. As opposed to
simply reissuing a new version identical to the classic, Tudor
has distilled over 60 years of diving watch designs into one
thoroughly modern piece.”
The Black Bay GMT model was one of the stand-out pieces at
Baselworld 2018. It features a 41 mm steel case with a Pepsistyle
24-hour bidirectional rotating bezel in anodised aluminium
that strikingly resembles the iconic GMT-Master from
Tudor’s sister brand Rolex. Nonetheless, the Black Bay GMT has
many distinctive details. Don’t let that comparison hold you
back. From 3,000 to 5,000$
CHANEL J12 COLLECTOR ROSE
The J12 has made a lasting impression since it first appeared in
2000. For its designer Jacques Helleu, his aim was to create “a
sporty watch combining design and technology," at that time in
the form of hi-tech ceramic. More than twenty years later, the
J12 has been a resounding success and has proven to be an extremely
versatile design.
With the 38 mm J12 Collector Rose, mixing a white ceramic case
with a pearlescent rose dial dotted with 12 diamonds to mark
the hours, Chanel has proven that sport, femininity and sophisticated
style can all be part of the same design.
From 5’000 to 10’000$
FAVRE-LEUBA RAIDER BATHY 120 MEMODEPTH
When the Bathy was first introduced in 1968 it was one of the first
wristwatches to come with a pressure membrane and centre
hand to measure depth more accurately. For its 50th anniversary,
the Raider Bathy 120 MemoDepth comes with an updated depth
gauge. A special pressure membrane integrated into the back
of the case allows water to enter a chamber where pressure is
measured to determine depth up to 120 metres, twice that of the
original Bathy watch. Depth is indicated on the dial by the blue
centre hand. The watch also has a depth memory function to record
the maximum depth reached during a dive. The membrane
and movement are hermetically separated, protecting the watch.
From 5,000 to 10,000$
CASIO G-SHOCK MR-G “TETSU-TSUBA”
Over 100 million G-Shock watches have been sold in thirty-five
years, cementing its status as one of the most popular sports
watches in the world.
Tetsu-Tsuba, the latest version of the watch, is bursting with
technical features and extremely robust. The name comes
from a traditional Japanese artisanal metalwork technique.
The model proves that the two diametrically opposed worlds of
technology and tradition can be combined in one piece. In this
case, GPS Hybrid Wave Ceptor technology, which guarantees
accuracy in any location worldwide in all conditions, and the
traditional art form of Tetsu-Tsuba work seamlessly together.
From 5,000 to 10,000$
SINGER TRACK1 HONG KONG EDITION
The AgenGraphe, (the name comes from Jean-Marc Wiederrecht’s
firm Agenhor) the calibre powering the Singer Track1 stands
apart from all previous chronograph movements. The result of
a decade of development, it completely redefines fundamental
principles that have remained unchanged for decades. The
underlying idea was to enhance the legibility of the chronograph
– which is usually poor – with the use of small counters
spread out across the dial. Thanks to a radically new architecture,
the AgenGraphe brings together all the chronograph
functions in the centre of the watch, allowing for an easy and
intuitive reading of elapsed time. To further enhance legibility,
the chronograph incorporates jumping minute and hour indicators.
The Hong Kong Edition is the third iteration of the watch.
From 20,000 to 50,000$
CHOPARD MILLE MIGLIA 2018 RACE EDITION
Chopard has created a special-edition watch to celebrate thirty
years of partnership with the Mille Miglia race. The design is
inspired by the dashboards of classic cars. Other details also
reveal the automobile-inspired design, such as the notched
crown resembling a petrol-tank cap and pushers shaped like
engine pistons. The strap is perforated in the style of driving
gloves. The movement is COSC certified. From 5,000 to 10,000$
EBERHARD & CO. NUVOLARI LEGEND
For over thirty years, Eberhard has celebrated the exploits of
racing driver Nuvolari in a collection of sports chronographs.
The most recent is the vintage-look Nuvolari Legend. Featuring
an automatic movement, the watch comes in a 39.5 mm or 43
mm steel case. The chronograph has a minute display at 12 o’
clock, hour display at 6 o’ clock and a spiral tachometer scale
in km/hr in the centre. From 3,000 to 5,000$
BELL & ROSS BR 03-92 DIVER BLUE
Bell & Ross introduced their first diving watch with a square
case in 2017, demonstrating their ability to create professional
underwater instruments. In the same mould as the Hydromax
from 1997, which is water-resistant to 11,100 m, and the BR02
range launched in 2007, the BR03-92 Diver translates the signature
square design into the world of diving, an area where
round watches dominate. The BR 03-92 was a new point of
departure leading to an entirely new collection. The BR03-92
Diver Blue and BR03-92 Diver Bronze are the two most recent
additions to the collection. From 3,000 to 5,000$
HAMILTON KHAKI X-WIND AUTO CHRONO LIMITED EDITION
Inspired by the original Khaki X-Wind Auto Chrono designed
for timekeeping in the air, the 2018 limited edition features the
maximum number of functions needed by pilots, including an
innovative drift-angle calculator. The bearing structure of the
dial makes reading the watch intuitive, whether the wearer
is reading one of the chronograph’s three displays, the date
window at 9 o’ clock or the rotating bezel with clearly visible
markers. The watch includes a COSC H-21-Si calibre, the first
Hamilton chronograph movement with a silicon hairspring. The
non-magnetic material is particularly useful for pilots, as they
often travel through areas with strong magnetic fields such as
airports. From 1,000 to 3000$
LONGINES HYDROCONQUEST
The HydroConquest watch is a true diving watch, water resistant
up to 300 m with a uni-directional rotating bezel, screw-in
crown and back, protective crown cover, double security folding
clasp and integrated diving extension. It comes in two versions:
a 41 mm diameter chronograph model and a calendar
version with three hands measuring 41 or 43 mm in diameter.
Both come with an automatic mechanical movement.
From 1,000 to 3000$
CERTINA DS ACTION DIVER SEA TURTLE CONSERVANCY
Launched in 1959, the DS concept (Double Safety) uses special
O-ring gaskets between the crown and the case back to
comply with ISO 6425 for professional diving watches. This
special version is water resistant up to 300 m with a screwdown
crown and case and a unidirectional bezel with hands
coated in Super-LumiNova. The watch includes the automatic
Powermatic 80 ETA movement, famous for its eighty-hour
power reserve. Less than 1,000$
TISSOT SEASTAR 1000
The Tissot Seastar 1000 automatic Powermatic 80 has all of the
functions a diver could need: water resistance to 300 m, luminous
hands, with an additional luminous dot on the seconds
hand, a diving scale marked minute-by-minute up to twenty
minutes, then every five minutes, screw-in crown and back. The
43 mm diameter watch is worn with a steel strap with a folding
clasp and diving extension or rubber strap. Less than 1,000$
BULOVA SPORT CHAMPLAIN PRECISIONIST
Powered by the Bulova proprietary Precisionist eight-hand quartz
chronograph movement with a 262kHz vibrational frequency,
eight times greater than standard timepieces for unparalleled
accuracy. Stainless steel and blue IP steel screw-back case
with screw-down crown, black carbon fibre chronograph dial
with date feature and red accents, curved mineral crystal, textured
blue polyurethane strap with three-piece buckle closure,
and 300-metre water resistance. Less than 1,000$
JEAN MARCEL OCEANUM CHRONOGRAPH
The meeting point between sport and timeless elegance. This
watch comes with an automatic chronograph movement
based on the ETA 2894-2 and is water resistant up to 300 m.
Only 200 watches have been created (100 blue and 100 salmon
pink), featuring a sapphire case back and a leather, rubber or
Milanese mesh strap. From 1,000 to 3000$
HANHART PRIMUS DIVER
Established in 1882, Hanhart supplied the Navy with chronographs,
including the famous single-button Calibre 40, and
stopwatches. Today naval officers, leisure sailors and divers
wear wristwatches or use stopwatches from Hanhart both
on and under the water. The Primus Diver’s fluted bezel with
inlaid red marking is reminiscent of the design of the watch
manufacturer’s legendary chronographs and is realised as a
concave, unidirectional rotating bezel featuring a scale for calculating
the dive time. It can be adjusted in an anticlockwise
direction and has a detent set in steps of a minute. Automatic
chronograph movement HAN3809 (bicompax).
From 3’000 to 5,000$
SEIKO PROSPEX 1968 COMMEMORATIVE EDITION
In 1968, just three years after Seiko’s first diver’s watch was made,
Seiko’s engineers raised the bar with a hi-beat diver’s watch with
300 metre water resistance, which became one of the foundation
stones on which Seiko’s future diver’s watch development was
based. It had a 10-beat high precision automatic calibre, a onepiece
structure, screw-down protection crown and unidirectional
rotating bezel. 50 years after, Seiko presents a commemorative
version of this watch. Its signature feature is the deep green colour
of the dial and bezel. Durability and strength are the watchwords;
the zirconia ceramic bezel is highly resistant to scratches
and shocks, the stainless steel case has a super-hard coating
and the sapphire crystal has an anti-reflective coating both inside
and out. The minute markers on the bezel are painted with
a specially powerful Lumibrite to increase the legibility of the
rotating bezel. In addition to the steel bracelet, a high strength
silicone strap also accompanies the watch. From 1,000 to 3000$
BAUME & MERCIER CLIFTON CLUB INDIAN LEGEND TRIBUTE CHIEF
Baume & Mercier has created a series of sports watches to
celebrate its partnership with Indian Motorcycle, which was
founded in the USA in 1901. The collection includes the Clifton
Club Indian Legend Tribute Chief model, featuring an automatic
chronograph housed in a 44 mm satin-finished stainless-steel
case emblazoned with ADLC details. The black dial with riveted
indexes is encircled by a tachymetric scale to measure speed.
The hour and minute hands are coated in Superluminova. The
signature style of Indian’s motorcycles can be seen in the
watch design: the red seconds hand of the chronograph displays
the brand’s iconic “I” and the date 1901 is engraved onto
the date disc and the case back features the famous Indian
headdress. From 3’000 to 5,000$
MICHEL HERBELIN NEWPORT CHRONOGRAPH AUTOMATIC
Michel Herbelin has completely redesigned its automatic
chronograph, fitted with a Sellita SW510, to mark the 30th anniversary
of its Newport collection originally created in 1988.
The 43.5 mm case comes in stainless steel, while the dial features
three sub-dials, all finished in anthracite-grey PVD. The
updated rectangular push-pieces are located on either side
of the crown, which is still notched but now comes in a conical
shape, accentuating the geometrical design of the case.
Water-resistant to 100 m, the tricompax chronograph can record
elapsed times up to 12 hours. Three sub-dials at 3, 6 and 9
o’clock display 30-minute and hour counters and a small seconds
hand. A worldwide limited edition of 300 numbered timepieces
was launched at Baselworld 2018. From 1,000 to 3000$
SQUALE 1521 50 ATM PROFESSIONAL
This watch is designed by Charles von Büren, the founder of
Squale. Since the fifties, Squale has been creating its own diving
watches, and the most recent model has to be the most simply
elegant of the entire range. Water resistant up to 500 m, the
watch has an attractive compact design at 42 mm in diameter
and 13 mm in thickness. The custom shape of the case protects
the screw-down crown at four-thirty, while the orange minute
hand makes the watch easy to read. The watch comes in three
different finishes: high-gloss polished steel, sandblasted steel, or
matte PVD. There is also a wide range of lacquered dial colours
available. The movement is an ETA Swiss 2824-2 automatic.
Less than 1,000$
TRASER P68 PATHFINDER AUTOMATIC
Traser invented the self-illuminating technology trigalight®,
so it’s no surprise that light is the main feature of the P68
Pathfinder Automatic and all other Traser watches. Trigalight®
functions without external light or energy sources, guaranteeing
complete visibility even in the most demanding environments.
Trigalight® takes the leading role when Super-LumiNova
elements have faded.
A glimpse inside the case reveals the secret of the P68
Pathfinder Automatic: a compass that can be operated with
one hand using the crown at 8 o’clock. Used in combination
with the position of the sun and the hour hand, the compass
makes it easy to determine the wearer’s current position and
the cardinal directions. Less than 1,000$
CITIZEN ECO-DRIVE DIVER 200M CHRONOGRAPH PROMASTER
This ISO-compliant chronograph features water resistance
for diving up to 200m and a unidirectional bezel, screw down
crown and push buttons. This model features a 1/5 second
chronograph that can measure up to 60 minutes. Promaster’s
photo-luminescent markings absorb light fast, stay bright for a
long time and cover a generous proportion of the hands. Eco-
Drive generates energy to drive the watch even in dim light
and stores the surplus in a rechargeable cell. On a single full
charge, it can run for up to six months in total darkness, eliminating
the need to replace or recharge batteries.
Less than 1,000$
LOUIS ERARD CHRONOGRAPH 1931 TITANIUM
Coming in anthracite-red and anthracite-blue versions, the first
titanium model by Louis Erard is elegant, sporty and defiantly
modern. The ultra-light case is made from resistant sandblasted
titanium. The 44 mm chronograph incorporates the design
aspects of the successful 1931 line, particularly the visible
wheel at 12 o’ clock. The automatic ETA 7750 Valjoux mechanical
movement is inside the case back. From 1,000 to 3000$
All mentioned prices are indicative and correspond to price segment.
TO READ MORE
Europa Star Watch Curator ’18 is a selection of 147 watches classified under 13 specific trends:
Tourbillons - Globes - Sun, Moon & Stars - Purity - Open-worked - Skulls - Sport - Tough - New displays - Barocco - Vintage & Neo-vintage - Connected - Calibres.
